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Brand new 1995 Nautique hull

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wholsea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2014 at 10:01am
Did it come with a title? I was looking previously to purchasing an out of state boat that didn't have a title, and what it would take to get one.

Then I was scared off due to the Ohio laws that make it a felony (I think) to procure a boat without a title (and likewise impossible to register...)

Sweet find though, some day I may actually get one :(
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-07-2014 at 10:24pm
Ok I have the GT40 rebuilt and ready to put in the new 1995 hull. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 95 nautique?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-08-2014 at 12:16am
Are you starting with anything at all?

One thing that would be helpful is to check this out:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25941&title=wiring-diagram

Contained with in is N2Deep's Picassa Photo album, that has many decent behind the dash pics:
https://plus.google.com/photos/100373035240749532488/albums/5735753015361402321?banner=pwa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2015 at 7:45pm
Hi all. Derek sent me some photos to post of this amazing project. Enjoy!

















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-31-2015 at 8:12pm
Way cool. Thanks for sharing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2015 at 10:53pm
Ok, the boat is completely wired thanks to Ron from Ron's Marine who had a like brand new dash and wiring harness out of a 1995 Nautique. The wiring is factory correct and is thing is coming out amazing. Next is to install the GT40. Does anyone know if I can install a motor and trans with a cherry picker if I lower the trailer to the ground, has any one done that with success?
Derek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2015 at 11:13pm
Originally posted by upsman upsman wrote:

Ok, Does anyone know if I can install a motor and trans with a cherry picker if I lower the trailer to the ground, has any one done that with success?
Derek

What did we ever do without search engines??? see this thread.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-21-2015 at 11:25pm
A standard engine hoist can do the job. Pictures! Pictures! Pictures! :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2015 at 9:39pm
I am in need of a measurement of were the motor placement is in relation to a fixed point like the plylon. I have a GT40 with a 1:23 trans and a 51" prop shaft. Also what is the distance between strut and prop? Thanks Derek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2015 at 11:27pm
Derek,

I can go take some measurements, but I don't think that will help you. I had two 1993 boats and was quite surprised at the variation between the two boats. These are hand-made custom machines more than they are mass produced machines that are exactly alike one to the next. I had the engine frames completely out of the boat. I did a fit-check of the parts-boat frame into my blue boat, and nothing aligned. The holes for the bolts into the boat structure are custom. The holes for the engine and transmission mounts are custom. Etc...

The motor and transmission mounts essentially rest on the engine frame. I would highly suggest you get the engine and transmission closely aligned to the prop shaft and then make and use that location. Recall that the prop shaft moves back and forth quite a bit. Don't align it to the most-aft location. Once you are satisfied with how things are aligned, mark those points for the mounts. Remove the engine and transmission, or just lift them up a bit, and drill the frame at those spots for the mounts. These locations will be perfect for your boat (and your boat alone). This is how I assume the factory does it.

Remember to put the engine and transmission mounts in the "middle" of all the adjustments. That will give you the room to move back and forth or up and down to get the engine and transmission aligned properly to the shaft. Go watch Pete's alignment video a few times to make sure you get the concepts.

I'd be willing to talk you though my experiences and try to use words to better explain what I'm trying to type out here. PM me if you need my phone number.

Where did you get the engine frame and that frame at the back that hold up the floor from? Those holes are all custom too. I wish I could come over and help! This is such a cool project.

Finally, I still have my second frame (the one that didn't align with my boat) sitting beside my house. I can go measure the snot out of that thing for you if you want.

Also - the front of the frame aligns with and provides support to the sky pylon. Thus - your frame aligns to the pylon and then your engine and transmission aligns to the prop shaft. Clear as mud?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 9:27am
For engine placement fore-and-aft, the only important dimension you need is the amount of overhang of the shaft behind the strut.

The strut and rudder positions are predetermined by the recesses in the hull where they mount.   

I don't have quick access to a 196 so that I can give you the measurement, but that should be no problem for you to get. This dimension can be + or - 1/4" without material effect on the setup. Just be sure that the boat that is measured has an original shaft in it. There is a difference in overhang between the shafts that use a nylock nut with the cotter key in the tip vs. those with the castellated nut with the cotter key through the nut.

Kroundy is correct, the measurement from the engine to the pylon means nothing. It is predetermined by the engine frame, and that dimension is not controlled closely.   
"Art"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 9:28am
Thanks Kevin,
I believe you are right about drilling new holes in the engine bed for proper alignment, what i need is the distance between the strut and prop.
Derek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 9:34am
Thanks Art,
I will have to get that measurement and I will be ready to proceed on. Thanks for the info on the shaft differences
Derek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 9:52am
I know in the past Tim has told us that when buying a new shaft keep that diamention at 1" between the prop and strut
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 10:06am
True, Gary, but I have found that different brands of propeller sometimes have very slightly different bore diameter, which of course will cause the distance to vary when mounted on a given shaft, which causes the distance from the strut to vary.

The old Ski Nautiques had about 3" from the strut to the prop hub, which caused them to be very sensitive to out-of-balance props.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 10:25am
I'd keep it at 1/2" max, preferably 1/4". That's for when you're dialing in shaft length though, I would not be minimizing that dimension when trying to determine proper engine placement, as that might lead one to install the engine too far forwards- the factory did not generally keep the strut to prop tolerance that tight. Getting the engine in the right spot is more important than minimizing that clearance, the latter can be done later with a shaft length adjustment. I'd follow Art's recommendation.

If I were starting from scratch, I'd put the mounts in the middle of their range (both side to side and vertical), and place the engine roughly in the middle of the tabs and see how close to aligned it is. If it needs to be adjusted, I'd split the difference in actual engine movement on the tabs and mount adjustment. Get it positioned close enough so that you know you can align it with the amount of adjustment you have left in the mounts, then match drill the cradle tabs through the mounts. Hopefully you could either reuse the old holes or the new ones are a significant distance from the old.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 10:39am
Tim, 1/2" will prevent some prop pullers from being used. I think he already has a shaft, so he won't want to have to change that. I think the 196 had about an inch of space from strut to prop hub. Just from my worn-out memory! The factory doesn't monitor engine position other than by the shaft overhang. That's why the ears on the engine frame are oversized.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 10:55am
I figured as much, Art. Using the same technique as the factory should get it close enough- assuming he has a factory length shaft.

We've got 1/4" or a touch less on the BFN and my Acme puller still fits. The OJ puller is tight but can be "massaged" on. No chance for the 3-bolt puller I have, but that doesn't play nicely with acme props anyways (it hits the leading tips before the hub). 1/2" would be enough for any of the 3. There is no reason not to keep that clearance as small as possible other than puller fitment as far as I can tell- performance and reliability both improve with that clearance kept minimal. I know some people who shall remain nameless who minimized it a touch too much and have to unbolt the coupler to get the prop off... But otherwise, no ill effects!

1" is excessive (let alone 3"!) but makes sense from a production standpoint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 11:04am
I think the 3" on the old boats was just because that's the way Leo Benz did it on the original SNs!

Don't forget that due to flex in the mounts the engine will move forward slightly on high-thrust throttle applications. Doubt that it would ever move 1/4", but given the occasional vairiations in prop bores, you don't ever want the prop hub to hit the strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 11:18am
Get the prop hung about 1/2"-3/4" out the back of the strut and drop the engine on the ears. Put the motorbox on and then post some pics. If everything is happy drill there. Engine placement and strut-prop clearance aren't exact.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 8:38pm
The old rule of thumb was the diameter of the shaft equals the distance between the strut and prop hub. The closer to the cutlass bearing the less overhung load the shaft will see. Tim likes to run real close but I like to see the distance at 1/2" to 3/4". As Art mentioned, less may be a problem getting a puller on the prop however, you could always break the coupling loose at the trans.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 10:31pm
I stopped at our boat storage yard today and there was a 1995 Nautique that I took some measurements off of. Total length from strut to the end of the shaft was 4 7/8" and from the strut to the prop was 1 1/2". Can anyone confirm these numbers on there 1995 Nautique?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2015 at 11:03pm
Don't measure to the tip, different shaft shaft styles will vary in overall length. The strut to prop clearance is the critical dimension and 1.5" is on the high side even for a factory job, but within reason. I've changed more props than most and I consider 1/16" to be a very large difference prop to prop as to where they sit on the shaft taper- even amongs props that vary in age by 40 years- they're pretty darn consistent in my experience.

If Pete can offer a good rationale for keeping the strut to prop clearance at anything but a minimum for anything but production slop and "it's good enough" rationale, I'm all ears. I've tried like heck and I can't get my bfn mounts to flex 1/4".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 12:49am
Here are some pictures.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 3:04am
Are those your freshly drilled engine mount holes I see there? This is still so amazing to me. Thanks for sharing the journey with us all!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 4:59am
I am slow to respond I did not see this post moving again, really exciting to see this boat getting ready for water. I have your twin, matching color, interior and engine but mine has 125 hours on it now after buying it a year ago with 100 hours.
I expect you will catch me this summer in hours of use.
I just measured the strut to prop distance on mine. It is dead on 1".
I installed this prop shaft right after buying the boat and I did not take measurements of the factory strut to prop distance prior to tear down. I know I matched the total prop shaft length to the OEM but I did not check to see if the prop relocated at all when I did this work.
Mine is wrapped for winter so I can't go inside it to take measurements but in a couple weeks I would be glad to help with pics and measurements it needed.
I saw the posts recommending reading up on shaft alignment to the engine. Great Advice, if you get it right you will be able to rotate your prop with one finger after it is assembled to the engine. The shaft has weight to it and it will sag on the engine side when in position. You might make a cradle out of a wood block to hold the shaft up in the natural center position while you align the engine to it for initial set up. Make sure the strut was set up correctly at the factory and centers the prop in your engine box. If it is not straight you may need to take it off and re set it. Great boat glad you are working on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upsman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:31am
Thanks for help everyone.
Derek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 9:57am
Looking great!

Another point to look at is clearance for the dog house. Mine has very close clearance to engine, if peeps push back on it with their feet it will rub the pulleys.

Keep the pix coming.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 10:05am
I know the job isn't finished, but don't forget to put a cotter pin in the prop nut! I think I saw an empty hole in the photo. Be sure to use a stainless one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2015 at 1:43pm
On the prop shaft the natural position would be where the prop shaft has the least amount of drag as you rotate the shaft. If it is too high the drag increases, same if it is too low. If you hit the sweet spot it will rotate smoothly with less drag. Less drag = longer life, good alignment, less vibrations. There are good write-ups on this forum that walk you through this really well.
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