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edelbrock carb question

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kapla View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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    Posted: August-28-2012 at 12:34am
My vette has a 1405 edelbrock carb, its been working fine since I install it 6 years ago.
Had the car sitting on stand last month due to having the steering pump rebuilt. Finally this weekend I was able to intall back the pump. Problem was it was leaking atf fluid all over. No more leak so far.
Now to the carb, no choke there. So pumped the gas and after a few cranks it fired right up. So out I went, picked the kids, and took them for a ride. Drop them with the inlaws and back home. To this moment car rans flawlessly. In a sudden it started to idle horrible, hit the has and you could see black smoke. WTF, gave it gas and it ran fine. So I was either running on 6-7 cylinders or I was having raw fuel dumped in there.
Got home and removed the air filter. Carb was flooded, got it running and yes it was dripping fuel on the primaries, small drops, all the time. I move the 2 screws in front, to the point It stop the leak, but when gave some throttle they start to leak again. On side or the other.
So looks like I caught some crude and the needle is not closing.
Now I know how to solve this on a holley, but the edelbrock is totally new to me. I already have a rebuilt kit, so want to go ahead in tear it appart. how difficult is to work on them? should I try to solved it, or take it to a shop?
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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75 Tique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 12:52am
Edelbrocks are very easy, much more so than Holleys. I have idle problems with mine periodically. What it seems to be is the idle circuit air passages get clogged. The carb is simple to work on, assuming the only difference between your 1405 and my 1406 (I know, don't tell anyone I am running an auto carb instead of the marine 1409 but that's what was on it when I bought the boat) is the electric choke. Take the top off by removing the six or so screws. There is next to nothing to them, two metering rods, the floats and the associated needle valves. Once the top is off, its easy to get to all the components and passages. Take off the other parts exposed by taking the top off. Spray cleaner through all the passages. I have rebuilt it once in 8 years, but have done this clean out a couple times and it always gets me going again. As far as the two idle set screws on the front, screw them all the way in then back out about 1.5 turns to start, then adjsut from there.

I wouldn't go near my old holley, they sound too complicated. But after having mine rebuilt once, I decided to take it on myself, tho I did buy a book to guide me. I was surprised how simple it was. I know you are handier than I am, so you will have no trouble at all.
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kapla View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 1:16am
thanks larry! I'll go ahead and investigate some! hope not to mess it more than it is now...

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peter1234 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter1234 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 11:08am
on a side note make sure you remove the two little phillips head screws and take out the metering rods before installing the top back on after it is tight reinstall rods and plungers . it lowers the risk of bending them and makes lining the top back up easier
former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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