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Holley 4160 float settings

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nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Holley 4160 float settings
    Posted: November-20-2005 at 4:01am
I ordered and received a marine Holley rebuild kit for my 4160 carburetor (list # 50419-1) from Summit. The kit came with all the correct gaskets, needles and seats, seals, etc,... My fuel bowls are the "non-adjustable" float type so the fuel bowls must be off of the carburetor to adjust the float level. On the chart of adjustment settings (that came with the kit) under my list number (50419-1) there is no adjustment setting listed,... it is blank. Does anyone know the proper setting for this carb (primary and secondary). Carburetor is on a 1988 Indmar 351W model 240/250.
95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier

Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2005 at 5:36am
I am not a carburetor expert. But, generally speaking the baseline setting is floats level with the bowl. However, given the angle of the engine in the boat, you may need to set the front (primary) float for more fuel the secondary (rear) for less fuel.
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2005 at 8:09am
Hold the bowl upside down and see if the float is hanging horizontal(that is the top of the float is parallel with the inside top of the bowl). That's a good starting point. Some that are none adjustable you have to bend the metal.
Tim D
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AWhite70 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AWhite70 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2005 at 9:52am
My carb is also the non-adjustable type. When I rebuilt it I set the floats as listed above and it's been working great for 2 seasons.

Turn the bowls upside down and bend the metal tab until the top of the float sits parallel with the top of the bowl (top now being on the bottom since it's upside down)
AWhite70
'79 Ski Nautique
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abolton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote abolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-31-2006 at 6:23pm
So let me get this right if you want the primary float for more fuel the float should be less or more than parallel with the inside top of bowl???

I just put a rebuilt carb on and no matter what I do to the idle screws I can't get the idle down under 1200 rpm without stalling. I figure it must be to much gas getting in so the float needs to be adjusted HOW? up/down??
Do I try one float at a time or go for both?
ABE
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2006 at 3:08pm
Loosen the jam nut, turn screw clockwise to lower the float, counter-clockwise to raise the float.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2006 at 3:12pm
This is a better picture. It shows holding the bowl upside down in step 1.
Tim D
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2006 at 4:01pm
why are you still messing around trying to adjust the float for a high idle problem the float has no effect on the idle or rpm. Do you enjoy chasing your tail or what, disconnect the f'n throtle cable and 20 bucks says the high idle goes away because the cable isn't adjusted correctly.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2006 at 4:02pm
And Not all Holley carb floats are adjusted that way, some are internal and have to be bent.
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abolton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote abolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2006 at 5:47pm
OK 79sn you are right I found that the PVC valve connection was the problem and now idle is working. Thank God I didn't mess with the internal float adj. I got out on the water and still have the same hesitation problem I had B4 I had the carb rebuilt. I will check the timing and make sure thats right, and go from there.
ABE
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SS-201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS-201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2006 at 3:41am
Use a 7/16 drill under the float and adjust.
SS 201
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abolton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote abolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2006 at 9:32pm
My carb guy found the carb vac leak, he left a unplugged heat riser tube connection at the choke spring, I pick it up and back on Sat morn. I hope it works this time.
ABE
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SS-201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS-201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2006 at 10:43am
Use a 7/16 drill bit and all will be fine.
SS 201
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tommer12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2006 at 5:20pm
How can you tell if the float is correctly inline? I changed out my power valve teh other weekend and have not had a change to test it yet, but I think I recall, I unscrewed the adjustment bowl slightly and may have not put it back exactly where it was. Is there a way to adjust this with the boat running?
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2006 at 5:27pm
You should have a sight hole on the side, a large brass screw. You want to adjust the float so that the gas is even with or just below the bottom of the sight hole.
Tim D
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tommer12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2006 at 5:39pm
So after I get it started, run it for a minute or to get gas in the bowl, stop the engine, look through the hole to see the gas is level with the site hole correct?

Thanks!

boat must be level also I take it... (on the trailer right now
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SS-201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS-201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2006 at 6:18pm
There is no adjustment for a power vale, you should have a 6.5 . At 6.5 vacuum the power vslve opens under a load., if you want to see put a vacuum on and run the boat watch when it opens.
We are speakin g of a stock engione. As I metioned bedfore put a 7/16 drill bit on r the case float and adjust the float.
This can change if you change props, bigger will bring the power valve to a early open., etc
SS 201
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-19-2006 at 8:13pm
You should be able to check the level through the sight hole while it is running. If you rock the boat and a little runs out, that's a good level.
Tim D
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SS-201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS-201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2006 at 4:10am
True, however not all holly's have sight holes
SS 201
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2006 at 8:28am
abolton, there was a heat riser tube on your carb? What's that about? I had one of those on a '62 Oldsmobile. (That was a great car.)
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2006 at 7:21pm
I am not sure what I did... I pulled off my bowl, replaced my power valve, and not the when I started it up, it squirted out the metal fuel rod that goes to the secondary bowl the fuel line tube? Maybe my orings are shot also???

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tommer12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2006 at 8:02pm
So... yes.. the ring is shot... found the part number at summit... but my question... with this 4160... I thought it only had one power valve. Looking at the exploded view at Holley, the Secondary bowl has a valve.... should I be replacing this also?>??? I just replaced the primary.... there is where I had backfire, I presume because i was out of the hole backfire... but my top end was fine.
I'm thinking ineed to pull the secondary bowl off to clean it out in case this left overr rubber gasket is in it...
thoughts?? comments? fun with carbs??

Also.. I got a new powervalve from SkiDim and it was the 2.5.... I keep seeing 6.5... what should it be?
1992 PCM 351 ProTec
thanks!
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SS-201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS-201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2006 at 4:35am
6.5 is the right one.
SS 201
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2006 at 8:26am
maybe this can help
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tommer12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2006 at 9:58am
Originally posted by SS-201 SS-201 wrote:

6.5 is the right one.


So then why would SkiDim sell me a 2.5 then?
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2006 at 10:03am
that's what they have in stock and the old kits where that way as well. The kit I got from REX Marine had the 6.5 power valve in it.
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tommer12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2006 at 10:06am
So whats my loss if I put a 2.5 in?? anything at all? I just install the primary 2.5 and now I have a secondary coming from summit just in case.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2006 at 10:22am
you'll lose a little power because the power valve won't kick in as soon.
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tommer12 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommer12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-23-2006 at 8:52pm
Tim, do you have a picture of the secondary??? I thought there was a power valve in the secondary, but not... the exploded view at holley says that there is, or is that just a different view?
Anyways.. I took off the secondary fuel bowl to clean it out because of the fuel tube o ring seal fell in there. The performance shop gave me the wrong gasket.. so now I have to wait until tomorrow. crossing my fingers that all this work will fix the problem..

thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS-201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-24-2006 at 4:03am
You will lose more than power, if you put a blank one in up the jet sizes by at least 10 sizes. However the best bet is to use a 6.5 valve. 2.5 is for racing or none at all, engines at wide open top only produce 2,3 vacuum.
SS 201
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