351W exhaust manifolds

The ones that came out did they come out easy? meaning not real tight? I wonder if you got some metric sized allen wrenches if that would work as long as the flats were not too rusted away.If that fails you might have to go the dremel route with the fiber cutoff wheels.When you replace them use stainless ones with anti seize.Either the PO didn't care or they are the original ones. Good luck

Noel - I just got back from Harbor Freight with a long shaft die grinder and 3 inch discs. I hope that will do the trick.

1) Could you use a 11/32 drill to drill the heads off the bolts ?
2) Or set a nut on the bolt head and mig weld it throu the center of the nut to the bolt?
3) Use 50/50 acetone & auto tranie fluid as a penetrant (for days)

Take your time - GOOD LUCK

I just came in the house from grinding and finally getting my GT40 exhaust manifold off in preparation for replacing both heads. I knew I'd have a problem with this one particular bolt (it is the second bolt from the rear (forward side of the last exhaust pipe) because it had rusted so much that it actually fuzed to the metal of the exhaust manifold. While all of the other bolts came out with surprising little resistance, just as I suspected, this one the allen bolt just stripped (I used liquid wrench on all for about four days beforehand. My 4"" circular grinder would get nowhere near it.   So I ran down to Harbor freight and picked up a drimmel-like rotory tool with a number of grinding wheels. I did go through two rough (black) wheels very quickly, then moved to the white ones (I bought a set of 5 in addition to what was in the took kit). It took a combination of grinding and drilling to finally get it off. Much more time that I expected. However, it would have gone faster if I had a punch with a smaller diameter end; the one i have is blunt (used it to tap all of the bolts first) and it didn't give me a good center point to drill from so my hole was a little off center, so I had to be careful. Of course, I was lucky in that I only had one with the problem, and at one point I was able to start wiggling the manifold with no other bolts in it, and finally get it to slide off. You can grind them all down and get them off, but you need a small rotory tool and a bunch of grinding wheels. The last one I used was the cylindrical one since I was able to use the flat end of it on the bolt flashing/flanges that got created as I was grinding down the bolts. As I said, this head bolt had literally fuzed (almost looked welded) to the exhaust manifold, so it was not just a matter of drilling/grinding down the heads, but also the fused part as well. But everything looks good on the manifold now that i have it off. As waterdog said, TAKE YOUR TIME, get the rotory tool that will allow you to get to all of the bolts, and you will get them off.

Jeff,

I apologize, it was a 2" disk.

Noel

TheSpleen wrote: I heatedit up with a torch a couple times and hosed some pb blaster-type stuff around it, didn't seem to help.

Don't get caught in the PB Blaster marketing scam!

8122pbrainard wrote: From: "Cost of replacing manifold" thread. 8122pbrainard wrote: Whitfield wrote: At times we also used PB blaster Hopefully you don't fall for other advertising BS hype like for Fram filters too! 8122pbrainard wrote: Here's the list of torque requirments copied from the other thread: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds I don't even consider WD40 to be a penetrating oil so that puts PB at the bottom for me. Kroil is a on line order only so when I was taking my 1927 Flexifour apart and trying to break the rusted pistons loose, I did pick up a can of PB. A week went by with no luck and then the Kroil came in. The next day after using some of the Kroil, all four pistons were loose. I ended up using the PB as a honing lubricant! The home brew ATF and reducing it with a solvent is real interesting! I need to mix up a batch and give it a try.

Good job! I didn't get anywhere as many sparks as you did :-)

I recommend heating the remaining shank to cherry red. Grab it with vice grips & it will come right out. You may want to have a pc of sheet metal to avoid heating the head too much.

leave those bolts in there, its time for a nice set of remanufactured gt40p's...

Yeah I've been looking at the GT40p... I guess it makes sense. I didn't want to spend too much on this though. If I did the GT40p I'd have (want) to get a new intake manifold too. What else would I need/want? I'm completely stock right now.

Gordon - my heads came off very easily. I pried a screwdriver in one end and it was getting lose... did the same on the other end and I was able to pop it out.

Cool. Between the rubber mallet and a screw driver, I should be able to get them off this evening. Thanks guys!

I don't think exploding would be your problem, but it creates a good amount of dust. I'd cover everything close by (not with newspaper ) but maybe a tarp. Have compressed air and a shop vac close by.
It certainly would be easier with the engine out but you can do it in the boat.

Thanks, one way to find out............

Maybe a heat gun and putty knife to scrape them off.