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Not another Mustang restoration thread.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 3:21pm
I turned the lights out in the garage at 0230 today. I listened to all the advice and it turned out ok. I thought the epoxy was thick enough, but I wasn't able to make a filet joint with it. Thicker next time. Sheesh, it takes a lot of Cabosil to thicken this stuff. I searched for some info on US Composites site about how long to wait and what prep I need to do to put on the next layer that make that filet joint. Didn't find it yet. any suggestions?
I don't like the look of the rudder port backing, especially the little piece of plywood used as a spacer. I plan on making it out of laminated Coosa. Should be stronger and look neater, but the original was apparently strong enough.
I may start wiring the panel soon while waiting between epoxy applications. I plan on zip tying the harness to the front lifting strap under the deck with the plug from the instrument harness to the main harness about 6" under the deck. Seems like that would work ok.
Here is how it stands this morning.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 3:37pm
John,
One thing I have found when using epoxy and that's when it starts to heat up, the vicosity goes down.

Regarding the next coat, the sooner the better. Before a full cure, you get a chemical bond on the next layer rather than just a mechanical bond.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 6:33pm
Since I'm almost finished with the original stringers I left them outside in the rain last night. The fiberglass had become disbonded from them and they were floating free in a fiberglass shell. They were in boarderline condition but I question how long it would be before any new fiberglass applied to them would disbond. They have absorbed a lot of bilge oil over the years, enough so that the water beaded up on them, as I suspect the epoxy would do as well.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2020 at 7:08pm
Looking good John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2020 at 11:39am
Nice job. Keep going
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2020 at 12:51pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
Regarding the next coat, the sooner the better. Before a full cure, you get a chemical bond on the next layer rather than just a mechanical bond.




I'd go ahead and mix up some resin and Microballons to make your creamy peanut butter and lay down your transitioning fillet seal so the glass will lay down nicely. A Tongue depressor works great if you've got some. Also for a REALLY smooth finish then you can drag a rubber gloved index finger dipped in alcohol or acetone for that silky smooth surface. I say either one as one works well with some resins and the other one doesn't. Same thing applies to silicon rubber. Spit usually works best but sometimes it's rubbing alcohol that works the magic . You can also cheat the system by smoothing out either by using a bottle sprayer to mist it first. Then smooth it out.

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LookIn' gooooood John.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2020 at 1:28pm
Any roughness in the fillet can be avoided by putting down a layer of 2” tape right over it and wetting it out before it cures.

It definitely sounds like you mixed it too thin. I find a little over 1:1 on volume is a good starting point (cab to mixed resin). Then add until the mixture sticks to the cup when you turn it upside down. Just don’t go too far and let it get clumpy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2020 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

add until the mixture sticks to the cup when you turn it upside down. .




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2020 at 5:21pm
Does thickening the epoxy with Cabosil and a few milled fibers to a thickness of peanut butter or cookie dough cause the epoxy to go off faster? I had a little over one hour pot life with the mixture I used to bond the stringers, but it was too thin. I mixed up a batch to do the fillet joint and it went off in about 12-15 minutes. The temp last time was 75 and I reduced it to 65 for this batch since I thought it would take more time to get the joints neat. I'll mix smaller batches in the future to avoid this problem.
The good part is the joint turned out really nice and smooth where I was able to finish it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2020 at 11:52pm
I think I have it figured out. Smaller batches, right consistency, finish like a caulk joint. I used the tongue depressors I got from U S Composites. Trying hard not to accidentally get the epoxy on a finished surface. It's hard for a geezer with bad knees to get up and move constantly without grabbing something I shouldn't. I'll need to order some more stuff before this thing's done. Steep learning curve here.
I am so tempted to buy the H/M aluminum intake and a DUI distributor and put the original stuff in a box. I know there are some that won't agree, but reliability is paramount and a little jewelry thrown in wouldn't hurt.
Thanks for the tips!




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 8:21am
Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

It's hard for a geezer with bad knees to get up and move constantly without grabbing something

John,
I'm with you on that. In fact, I typically look for something I can grab onto before getting down at floor level.

It's looking great.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCH20SKIER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 9:23am
Well done John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 9:48am
Looking good.

If you have a line on that intake for short money then grab it. I’d pass on the DUI for that set up, though I love them in my chevies. No reason you can’t have reliability with the old Mallory stuff... though I do have a preference for the Prestolite (especially the screw down cap style), it just seems better put together. Either looks good on a vintage Ford.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 5:22pm
I wish my engine would look as good as yours,it's beautiful. I rattle caned mine and it tunred out fairly wel. I don't have to worry about the finish on the vlve covers because I'm using the original stamped chrome ones. There won't be much of the engine block and heads to see and I think that manifold will look very nice. I have talked to a powder coater and I plan on having him coat the manifolds, brackets, mounting hardware, and assessories. I have two original iron 4V manifolds with the proper casting #. I have no line on the H/M intake. I would buy it new at retail off of their website.
I am confused about the comment about the screw down distributor cap. Aren't all the Mallory crab caps screw down? My Mallory is a dual point that has had the second set of points removed and the condensor installed internally in their place. I rebuilt it and installed electronic ignition. I have to points plate to drop in if it should fail, but I have used this brand in several boats and have never had a problem.
Funny that the distributor had the original Mallory tag on it. H/M basically dipped their engines in blue paint Everything was covered and it is far from the quality on your engine. The original Mallory tag was on there but had a thick coating of paint. I managed to remove the paint without damaging the tag, but I covered that back on the pages around 35-40.   
I am considering replacing all of the fasteners on the engine with SS. I like the look of the originals, but with the parts powder coated it may look funky. Has anyone else done this? Don't get your blood pressure up Pete.
Off to work with epoxy again.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 6:54pm
Rattle can job above, an automotive spray job would be nicer but you can get decent results without working too hard. I’ve used stainless hardware quite a bit on my engines but I prefer the original monochromatic look on the older stuff like above... I just spray it all.

I’ve never been all that impressed with the mallorys, theyre all clip down that I’ve seen. Prestolite made clip and screw down versions, typical of 80’s era pcm’s to have them. The latter is on my conqueror crusader, it’s a nice, simple piece. The mallorys can be made to work fine too though. I
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 8:08pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Rattle can job above, an automotive spray job would be nicer but you can get decent results without working too hard. I’ve used stainless hardware quite a bit on my engines but I prefer the original monochromatic look on the older stuff like above... I just spray it all.

I’ve never been all that impressed with the mallorys, theyre all clip down that I’ve seen. Prestolite made clip and screw down versions, typical of 80’s era pcm’s to have them. The latter is on my conqueror crusader, it’s a nice, simple piece. The mallorys can be made to work fine too though. I


Tim, maybe it's a H/M thing. Both of my H/M Mallory distributors have screw down caps. There are small aluminum pieces attached to the body by screws through the clip mounting holes. The cap screws thread into them. They are Mallory L445 distributors with the tag YL445KV. They may have been special orders for H/M. They are listed as Dearborn LH 8 cylinder with Mallory cap 18-5375. I ordered a repro from Sierra and it is designed as a clip down, but this mounting hardware makes it a screw down.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 8:46pm
John

Only Tim knows the reasons for his preference but as far as your hold downs, the automotive versions of the Mallory YL's typically used clips that resemble those used with the Prestolite clip down cap.

The marine units through the years have used a couple of different variations of those aluminum hold downs that you have.

Google is your friend if you look for Mallory automotive and marine and Prestolite clip down and screw down cap distributors.

Some people like Ginger, some like Mary Ann   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 9:15pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

John

Only Tim knows the reasons for his preference but as far as your hold downs, the automotive versions of the Mallory YL's typically used clips that resemble those used with the Prestolite clip down cap.

The marine units through the years have used a couple of different variations of those aluminum hold downs that you have.

Google is your friend if you look for Mallory automotive and marine and Prestolite clip down and screw down cap distributors.

Some people like Ginger, some like Mary Ann   

And there are those who prefer Lovey.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 9:27pm
Yes screws usually hold the clips but that’s a clip down in my book. Same Mallory on the HM and Interceptors of the same era if I’m not mistaken. Probably all the Fords. Mine was certainly replaced later. The screws hold down the cap on the prestolite (screw down). No clips.

Maybe I’ve got one with a nice smooth (and fast) curve, but I’ve struggled to get the timing where I want it on a few mallory’s. Messing with the weight and spring kit to get it right is for the birds. I also do not care for the engagement of the clips or how the points plate attaches on the Mallory, everything on the Prestolite just seems beefier and better built. That said I’ve driven plenty of Mallorys that run great so I know it can be done. But working on the Prestolite is easier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 9:44pm
When I was younger one of my friends would liberate a can of spray paint from work every day via his lunch box to paint his Beetle. Don't remember what kind of paint it was but being in the early 70's could not have been anything great,but I have never since seen a spray can do as nice a job.
As to distributors mine is a clip down with a tach drive. Keeping in mind our boats are something like 27 apart my engine was a 289 serial number 2511. So being the boat is a 69 it's obviously an early HM compared to yours.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 10:12pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

When I was younger one of my friends would liberate a can of spray paint from work every day via his lunch box to paint his Beetle. .

All the same color or was it one of the psychedelic jobs back in the 60's?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2020 at 11:17pm
All one color Pete and it would make Zach proud- a nice Caterpillar yellow    At least it wasn't Bell System green

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2020 at 1:26am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

All one color Pete and it would make Zach proud- a nice Caterpillar yellow    At least it wasn't Bell System green


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2020 at 1:49am
Tim, Your engine is really sharp. I don't expect to get show quality results like yours, this thing is a driver. Would you suggest I just finish it with the same Dupli-color I've been using? That would make this thing go much faster and eliminate the color match issue with the powder coater. I also like the look that It's never been cracked open. I have been told to use an etching primer with the steel parts. Do you have a suggestion for the aluminum manifold primer? I can search the net but who knows what advice I'll get.
Thanks for the input on the distributor. I only have this one because it was dumped in my lap with the boat. Nice to know your thoughts as someone who's tuned them. Maybe Mallory is a Ford thing. My first car had a side oiler with a dual point Mallory. That was in 65, I've been told times have changed.
Sorry to lean on you so hard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2020 at 8:02am
Duplicolor self etching primer followed by rattle can crusader blue is shown above. I’ve used duplicolor on everything else and it looks just as good. I’d keep going that route.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2020 at 4:09am
I have sinned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2020 at 12:33pm
??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2020 at 12:49pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

??

I believe that John feels guilty of chrome plating parts that were originally painted??

John?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2020 at 1:28pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

??

I believe that John feels guilty of chrome plating parts that were originally painted??

John?

I knew you would get it Pete.
The original looks tired and dull and it's easier to have it chromed than painted. I have an extra set of hardware, I just couldn't resist.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2020 at 2:13pm
Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

??

I believe that John feels guilty of chrome plating parts that were originally painted??

John?

I knew you would get it Pete.
The original looks tired and dull and it's easier to have it chromed than painted. I have an extra set of hardware, I just couldn't resist.

John,
I like it.



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