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Not another Mustang restoration thread.

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 8:14am
John,
Continue on and stay safe.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Godspeed to you John!


Keep calm and carry one. It’s fine to post your hobby
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2020 at 1:23pm
Yes John, it is a good escape for all of us. It is a small sense of normalcy in this time of unknown and craziness. So continue to work, continue to post and of course, wash your hands - HA!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-30-2020 at 11:18pm
I haven't been motivated the last several days, but I got out to the garage last night and masked the engine. I made a little spray booth from some furniture packing material from my daughter's business and gave it a rattle can job today. It's acceptable. A lot more parts and the exhaust manifolds left to do.
I got to thinking about the crank and cam I saved from the sacrificial H/M Mustang, The block was cracked and evidently not original. The area where H/M would have stamped the number matching the data tag was blank, likely an indication it was a replacement engine. Most often people buy a short block which includes the rotating assembly. I am now questioning if the spare cam is an H/M cam, or more likely a standard RR replacement. I should have had the machine shop that rebuilt my engine give me the specs on it for comparison. A bit late now.
I hope everyone is well.







1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2020 at 11:49pm
The main stringers are pretty much done, on to shaping the secondaries. They are 100.75" The coosa is 96". I believe the length was only important to pick up the last crossmember for a seat anchor point, which they missed from the factory. I'll add on a bit if I feel the need once they're in.
I am laying out the pieces for fitment. The removable panel has 1/4" plywood backing over about 1/2 of the bottom. The stringers are shaped to allow it to be the same height as the pan without a floor and I think that is the reason for the skinny backing. It has a 1/4" bow in the center. I think the easy way to do this is to chisel the plywood off of the removable pieve of the fiberglass pan and bond it to 3/4 coosa all the way to the tail for rigidity. I am apprehensive. I would hate to do damage and need to call the Seadek guy. The pan is worn at the chafing points but I still like it. This Mustang will be a "driver" when it's done, but I have a lot of love for it.
I debate sending the Velvet Drive out for a freshen up. It hasn't been used in 20 years. I started the boat when I got it about 9 years ago and it shifted properly on the trailer and had a clean neutra.I I lean toward dropping it in and rolling the dice. At least it's easy to R&R if it has an issue, but I would probably lose weeks looking for a rebuild
.








1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 12:25am
Order your self one of these from Harbor Freight cuts good and won't get away from you. I know Pete will tell you to buy the original expensive one but this one works and it's 20 bucks. Throw it away when your done



My hatch was plywood cored- real spongy. Cut the top fiberglass skin off-



Then cleaned up all stuck on remnants using the tool like a scraper this was end result-



Finished with new plywood-

69 Mustang HM SS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 12:49am
AHHHahahaha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 9:14am
Originally posted by john b john b wrote:

AHHHahahaha




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 9:25am
What is that thing?

Backing the entire panel with some Coosa is a good idea. I’m sure CC only backed the part of the panel that would get stepped on with the back seat in place. I would put the panel face down on a flat surface and add some weight when bonding- might get that bow out. The patina on the floor pan will not hurt it’s appeal.

I would take a chance on the transmission also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 10:00am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

What is that thing?.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multi-Tool-62866.html

Although I do prefer a higher quality one, due to the heat and vibration the cheaper ones have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 10:21am
You can get the Rockwell version for $79. Has some decent weight to it for the price. Weight seems to be the key to keeping it stable.
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 10:56am
Ah, I’ve got a PC version. Still discovering new uses for it. Didn’t recognize it with that half round blade.

If the wood on the back of the panel is rotten I’d be going after it with a flap disc on an angle grinder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 11:35am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If the wood on the back of the panel is rotten I’d be going after it with a flap disc on an angle grinder.


Or just use the tool it's like skinning an animal,less mess as well. I originally bought this tool to remove carpet- that literally was like skinning
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 12:36pm
I think the lady down the road has one of these tools.

It's cordless, variable speed and takes lots of different attachments.

I think she likes it, she's always smiling
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2020 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


It's cordless, variable speed and takes lots of different attachments.
I think she likes it, she's always smiling


Best Christmas gift I ever got my wife! Now I can spend more time in the garage with my toys and she still smiles.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2020 at 6:49pm
I layed out the patterns taking into account the unplanned backing the removable panel with Coosa, and I'm not sure if I can get by with just one more sheet. . I may need 2.. As long as I'm going to Kalamazoo MI to pick up one or two sheets, maybe I should get a sheet or so of 1/4" coosa to make the side panels. I know it's probably not necessary but what the heck. It will make the 330 mile drive worth it.
I am also disappointed that the terminal ends I got from McMaster Carr have a bright silver finish. I would have liked copper like the originals. I guess these will have to do.
Still chugging along slowly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2020 at 3:43pm
Can anyone tell me the clearance between the spark arrestor and the engine cover on a mustang 302 with a flat top engine cover? I really like the Holman Moody 4V aluminum intake manifold but it looks slightly higher than the original. Although not original, I think it would look nice on the engine. Reluctant to spend the $$ to find it doesn't fit.
Holman Moody 4V intake manifold
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2020 at 5:04pm
It’ll fit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2020 at 2:53am
Thanks for the intake info Tim.
A beautiful day today. Did a little work
What should I thicken the epoxy with when I bond the stringers down, hopefully tomorrow? Cabosil? Milled fibers? Microbaloons? I would guess Cabosil based on blue sky. Anyone?
I used this Craftsman sabre saw to work on a Glen-L boat when I was about 10yoa. Different day, same hand, but with wrinkles. The arrow of time is unrelenting.
Today's work, shaping the secondaries..
I hope all of you here and your family are well.

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If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2020 at 8:04am
Originally posted by john b john b wrote:


A beautiful day today. Did a little work
What should I thicken the epoxy with when I bond the stringers down, hopefully tomorrow? Cabosil? Milled fibers?


John,
Both sound good to me.

It was a nice day up here too. Warm and sunny so the ice is finally starting to go on the lakes.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2020 at 10:11am
Milled fibers are stronger but cabosil makes for a much smoother, creamy consistency. I’d use a bit of each.

Micro balloons is low strength and better for fairing (when sanding it off will be easier).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C_Heath Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2020 at 3:47pm
good job staying motivated since 2011. I wouldn't be able to at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2020 at 3:50am
Originally posted by C_Heath C_Heath wrote:

good job staying motivated since 2011. I wouldn't be able to at all.


Clearly you jest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 12:41am
I think I'm ready, but I'd be lying if I told you I wasn't nervous about bonding the stringers down. I am trying to do everything right. I spent some time the last couple days tweaking the stringers to fit the countour of the hull as closely as I could by hand sanding them.
I leveled the hull across the step pad area. It was already very close and a little tire pressure adjustment made it perfect. The stringers are level as compared to the hull. The aluminum angle for the motor mounting is level and 1/8" lower than the original surface. I can't think of anything else I can do to assure a good result. I will clean the bonding areas with acetone tonight and attempt to bond them tomorrow. I am leaving the temp at 70 degrees for the process and using the 3:1 epoxy. The secondaries are shaped to the hull and I plan on trimming them to the correct height, level with the primaries, after the primaries are bonded. If anyone has any helpful comments I would appreciate hearing them.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 1:05am
Give it just a little bit of pitch on final trimming... will send the water to the bilge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 2:13am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Give it just a little bit of pitch on final trimming... will send the water to the bilge.

Thanks Tim. I just can't go back and revisit the fitting of the primaries. In addition to my extremely slow pace i am concerned about mechanical clearance due to cutting everything 1/2" short to make up for the floor. I could pitch it a bit toward the center to drain to bilge by the engine since I haven't finished the elevation of the secondaries yet. Is that reasonable or is the intent to pitch it toward the rear? The front has a lip on the pan so that wouldnt work. A bit of hard acceleration and running just short of the step before putting it away may be my only option. My daughters and grandsons believe if you're not soaked, you're not boating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 10:33am
Pitch to the bilge (center).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 10:37am
Late to the game on this one John and Tim was right on the epoxy additives.

Cabosil is basically a resin thickening additive. if you don't want runny resin add cabosil.

Microballoons are a Gap Filling additive. Not as strong as milled fibers because they are microscopic glass spheres. Great for adding a fillet seal around whatever your bonding and for rounding out 90 degree transitioning angles. (like stringers to the hull) Fiberglass does not like 90' bends and will lay down a lot nicer if they have a nice smooth curve to follow when going from horizontal to verticle.   Off topic but GE uses a mixture of resin and microballons as a rubstrip for an Air/oil seal for the Engine shaft on its motors. They're tough but yet easy to sand.

Milled Fibers are added for extra strength as TRB stated but you don't wanna get too crazy and over zealous with them. Too much added and your resin will be weaker because they'll trap air in the compound making the bond weaker A heavy dose of fibers to REALLY thicken up the resin ain't good. Once you start sanding it and it's a mess, it's hard and you'll go through some Sandpaper, you'll see tiny pinhole pockets of air through the harden resin if you look REAL close at the sanded resin. I've seen guys add so much fiber to the resin it looked like crunchy PB on a -20'F day.

Bottom line is be smart about it and when you need thicker resin or ready to bond the stringers Think Creamy PB or room temperature Cream Cheese consistency for you Bagel Boys.

Keep up the good work John and thanks for the thread! .
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 11:12am
John,
Take note of Tim's comments. He knows his stuff since his skills are what's holding those planes together. Next time you're up in the air on DAL, (if they do ever get back up there!) think of Tim.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2020 at 2:50pm
Awwww thanks Pete!
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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