Not another Mustang restoration thread.

John,
Have you calculated the capacity of the tank? Did the OEM offer the tank on the engine mount or did you think of the idea? If it was your idea, I love it! Great thinking!

Hi Pete. The capacity is 20 gallons to the bottom of the filler neck and it leaves a bit of room for expansion, although almost none is needed. Since the aluminum top side is reflective and the bottom of the tank is in the lake water the fuel is always lake temperature. This significantly reduces the exposure of the fuel to moisture in the atmosphere since it doesn't "breathe" through daily heating and cooling cycles. It's probably not that big of deal to me though since ethanol free marine fuel is all they sell at Greers Pier. New pontoon boats commonly use a plastic tank inserted into the engine tunnel so it doesn't provide the same heat sync property. I suspect they do that because it is pretty labor intensive to do all the welding required to make the tunnel into a tank and install all the bungs and fittings.

Gary S wrote: How in the world did this Mustang thread get turned into a mini van of the seas thread?

The same lack of focus that has turned this Mustang restoration into a five year project. And now I have another distraction. Sigh.

Gary S wrote:    I'm just finishing up a flooring project when I'd rather be doing more fun stuff.

Gary,
Where did you purchase the flooring and supplies needed for the project?

I'm still hoping someone with a 16' Mustang with a Ford and a fiberglass engine cover can tell me how much clearance there is to the flame arrestor. I want to get my manifold ordered but I need 1.5" to clear.

TRBenj wrote: You're talking the motorbox that was generally used 70+, right? Flat top version. Eddy performer RPM will fit without a carb spacer. Reid runs a HM intake on his 347 '73 with the same box, I can't recall if he still used the hm wedge spacer. Might be worth digging up a pic of his orange/white Mustang, John. I think it would fit though. May require a 2" arrestor.

You'd have to change the pvc arraignment too. Not a big deal but where do you stop? Quit messing around with it put the stock manifold on for now,it's now less than 11 months to the next full on GL. Change it out later if need be when you actually will have the height dimensions in hand. My 2cents.

Gary, the PCV is in a line from the valve cover to the carb wedge.. The H/M intake is a direct bolt on and has the same vacuum ports and bosses as the iron one. My understanding is it flows better and is about 10# lighter than the iron one and the ports are slightly larger and match the Ford X or the Flo-Tek heads. A little port matching may still be required as in any application. The H/M intake is just a little period correct bling. I don't think the boat needs more power than it originally had but the aluminum heads are about the same price as reworking the C8OEs. And I lose 50#. The heads are reportedly good for 65hp with nothing else and there are dyno pulls published to back that up. As I said that's not the purpose, but if I have to spend the $$$ I may as well get something for it.

Gary S wrote: Im not saying not to put it on Im saying get the boat done first it can be put on later when you have more time to mess around.Start sacrificing parts just to get something not OE on where do you stop? Get rid of those motor mounts PCM's are better,get rid of that YL there are better. Those exhausts? there are better of those too, slippery road........pretty soon it don't look like a HM.

Gary, I'm not doing the assembly, just sending the parts to the machine shop/engine builder. I will get it back ready to run. My time is better spent on other stuff. Right now I'm suffering from purple distraction like Jan feared, but the summer will be over soon.

Cam research .460 (1.6 ratio) lift. Options are pretty limited.

john b wrote: I have searched and can't find a thread regarding available performance 351/302 RR camshafts. I remember reading about some being available and I am curious about the specs. I am considering going with a new one just because the engine is fresh and I'm not sure I want to risk the build on an old camshaft. As long as I'm at it one with a little more juice may be in order to go with the aluminum heads. I would appreciate being pointed to any information available.

Comp Cams have the RR blanks in stock and can give you just about any grind you need. I went with .486 lift and 1.6 roller rockers.
For the money, it is hard to beat FloTek heads. They are a nice piece. Order them from Speedway motors for $369 ea. delivered. The ones built for Speedway have slightly lighter springs and the smaller runners. Both are good for our setups. You can call the factory and talk to them. They recommend Speedway Motors.
Should really liven up your boat and get rid of weight.

I got a nice email about the origin of my boat today. The short block is done at the machine shop waiting for heads, intake, and valve train. I got by with .030 and pistons with the same dish volume to keep the 10.5 : 1 CR. After toying with many possibilities a decision about how to finish it must be made soon. I am now seriously considering ditching the aluminum heads/ intake idea and tearing down my spare H/M engine and inspecting those heads for water jacket scale, then having the best pair reworked and keeping it all original. I can always buy the aluminum heads if I'm unhappy with the performance when I'm done. I suspect it will be adequate for our use.

Still there Peter, at least I hope I find it there when I go to MW later in the week. I plan on picking up the heads and taking both sets to the machine shop and letting them decide which to rework. The negine will be done about 2 weeks after I deliver them.
I hope to see you next summer, keep me in the loop if you make any decisions on that Mustang of yours.

Just laying things out.

I learned from Courtesy Metal Polishers, the plater that did my chrome, that the finish on the windshield frame is bright anodizing. I have located a shop several miles from me that does bright anodizing. The process requires that the original anodizing is removed and the aluminum is polished. Courtesy can do this. The polished aluminum can then be anodized and it should look like new. Looks like I just can't stop this train, there is always one more thing. I wondered why aluminum polish had no effect on the finish. I was told the anodizing is a very hard finish. My other options are chrome, or leave it polished aluminum, but that requires periodic maintenance to keep it nice.
Cheers!