Not another Mustang restoration thread.

My ring & finger needs re-plating. I avoided doing so when I had my other parts re-plated because I am afraid of damaging it. The roll pins have been removed by the PO. I have read the threads that indicate it is difficult. Any suggestions? Should I try heating the pylon?

8122pbrainard wrote: apply upward force, oil, and then rotating back and forth.

Sounds like one of Quinners's Saturday nights

John,
Since it's not in the boat, find a machine shop that will chuck it up in a lathe and then pull on the ring and finger with the tail stock. Another idea, if the pylon is a hollow one is to get a bar up the center and knock the ring and finger out.

John,
Get the shank out and repair it (welding and grinding) since you are having it re chromed anyway.

How'd you break it? We've been trying to remove one on a 1969+- pylon and it does not want to budge. Engine hoist didn't work or plenty of heat. We've given up on it for now as we no longer have the correct boat for it.

I took the pylon with the ring & finger in to an automotive fabrication shop ( Roman Performance & engineering ),and told them I wanted the finger pulled from the pylon and the ring welded back on and the weld ground down like it was to go out for plating. Their response was pretty much OK, see you next week. I hope it really is that easy.
Roman Engineering

Thinking that a may be joining this thread in the near future.....I have either found something to bring back to life or part out. stay tuned

That would be a thread in itself Pete. I've tried about everything, except for picking up a new wheel on ebay and breaking out the sawzall.

It is a two spoke wheel with a non tapered shaft. I'd like to remove it so that I can paint the helm and restore the wheel. They're really ugly, especially the black helm.

David had a 5" 3/16" plate made up that we slipped behind the wheel. We attached it to a wheel puller and put enough pressure on it so that it bent the plate. I've smacked it with a hammer, tried Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Sea Foam, I've even left the puller on for a week and kept spraying Kroil on it hoping it would pop. I haven't heard of the new stuff you're talking about. Damn thing is stuck on there.


This wheel and the pylon have defeated us so far. I'm glad I know about the pylon as I thought the finger was the fragile part.

the stuff i have is crc freeze off.

Is it complete and running? Tell us more. Someone would like that trailer if it has its day with the Sawzall.

If it is sacrificed keep me in mind if you post the engine or manifolds.

Tim, I looked at your dual exhaust conversion thread again but couldn't find what schedule pipe you used. 304? 304L? Which tubing is best suited for this?. I need to have pipes fabricated from the riser outlets to the tips and i don't want to have to service them....ever. I'm going straight pipes connected at both ends with silicone hump hoses. Good idea? I hope my lake patrol relationship doesn't change from social to professional. I think I will be OK if I am responsible with it. I plan on using hump hoses to connect them at both ends. I had considered copper for a while but I don't know why I did that. Stainless looks like the way to go from your thread. I have a fab shop in mind but they don't do boats generally. I am not sure I want to rely on their choice of tubing.

I think you should wait until the stringers are done and the engine is in. The angle of mine in the boat is more than 90*. It would work but since your having them made you might want to get them closer,silicone 3" 90's would be perfect if you could afford them or if they are even made.Somewhere I have a pic of the side angle too.if you do go stainless you will have to see what the fabricator can work with too,I don't think all grades will bend the same. For reference John I used plain steel the first time around ,they lasted 20 years any stainless should outlast us