Not another Mustang restoration thread. |
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turningpoint84
Platinum Member Joined: September-11-2008 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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John,
Are you using the new marty mabe dash? |
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Proud 1968 mustang owner and now
1970 Mustang |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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It's -8F right now and i'm preparing to start work on the Mustang again soon.
I have apparently thrown out the respirator I used for my last project 6-7 years ago. Can anyone recommend a good respirator brand / model for the project? I am also considering ordering a Dremel Saw Max for the project. It looks like a good tool for this purpose, any comments? I have a Bosch Roto Zip with the cutting wheel attachment I used on the last project, but it is of questionable quality. It is my third Roto Zip. I burned out two of them doing the last boat project and finished it with this third one. It doesn't sound too good. Dremel Saw Max Thanx. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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John, Ive tried a few rotary cut off tools and they work ok- especially for tight spots... but they see very limited use. I have to say that our 4.5" angle grinder does pretty much all the heavy lifting when it comes to fiberglass. Having a diamond wheel and an assortment of stone grinding and flap sanding discs make it pretty darn versatile. We've put our Milwaukee through hell and back. If you dont already have one, I highly recommend it.
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dochockey
Gold Member Joined: September-16-2009 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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I recommend 3m for the respirators
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1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
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dochockey
Gold Member Joined: September-16-2009 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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I recommend 3m for the respirators, this is where you don't skimp .
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1989 Teal Ski Nautique
1967 Mustang Harris Float Sunfish |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I am trying to ease my way back into the Mustang project within the next six weeks. I lost my way for a while with other projects and need to focus on getting this thing on the water next year. I think the next task is to cut all of the fiberglass away from the stringers and assess them. I explained that it has pulled away from the wood, probably from the numerous freeze / thaw cycles and the wood expanding and contracting as the moisture content changes. I hate dust. Has anyone here tried a multitool to cut the fiberglass away from the stringers? It seems like it may be well suited for this. Just for refreshers this is what I'm dealing with. I don"t
want to replace the original stringers if the they are sound. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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They look great. Pull off any loose glass and then re glass. I wouldn't worry about them if your lag bolts tighten up and everywhere you look, looks like that.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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I'd opt to tackle the delaminated areas with a grinder and flap disc John, other bladed saws will be more destructive and won't let you "feel" the delam as well. I hate the dust too but I think that's the way to go for you.
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Tim, do you mean a grinder with a cutting cutting wheel and a flap disk to prepare the area? I am intimidated by the quality of the work I have seen you and others do. I will need to install a floor in this thing since I am going foamless. This will cause the floor to be higher than the original. Do you plane down the stringers to accommodate this? If so that brings the motor mounts into play. What is the best method to deal with this? The small cross member by the rear seat is rotten in an area and must be replaced and the area around the pylon needs repair because the PO put a Flyhigh in there and the diameter was greater than the original "skinny pylon". There are a few other areas that may need attention too but overall I think I will be better saving the original wood if I can.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21107 |
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I would only use the flap disc. It'll help you find the edge of where the delam ends, and you can feather the still-adhered glass in one shot.
I would not attempt to plane down original stringers, I would live with the taller floor instead. If you were starting from scratch with the stringers, only then would I compensate for it. I would not install the motor mounts through the floor- I'd install them directly on the stringers. I would notch the new ply floor around the mount locations at the very least, or leave the ply a bit short of the main stringers on either side of the engine entirely. Getting this to look right while still providing proper support for the floor pan is probably the trickiest part of this project. |
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4492 |
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While not entirely relevant since it sounds like you're using a floor pan, this picture might help stimulate some imagination for the engine mounts and exhaust passages.
This boat and my 70 Skier (Mustang hull without foam from the factory) both had supports for the floor crossing the primaries and secondaries. The motor mounts were notched like Tim described above. I'd strongly suggest 5/8" ply as we tried both 1/2" and 3/4" and were not happy with either. Too thin with the 1/2" made it feel soggy, and the 3/4" was difficult to deal with. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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I when I first had my boat done I used 1/2". When I redid it back to its SS mode I found some 1/4" 5 ply underlayment that I cpes'd and then added cloth to both sides. The motor sits on the original stringers,the floor being cut out around the mounts. Being such small boats,I don't believe that anywhere you walk has a span greater than 6". The back removeable floor I bonded the ply right to the panel just like original and built a small frame work to support the panel right on that stringer crossmember.
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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We notched around the engine mounts which was how it was done originally. We went foamless, so went from 1/4" to 5/8" for the floor which is plenty strong in a Mustang or Cuda without additional support.
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13510 |
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We used a multitool to notch into the good glass to form a stopping point when peeling up delaminated areas. Feathering this edge won't be so dusty. I am easing into the Martinique this week too.
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4492 |
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Looking forward to seeing some progress! I'll be over a few times in October if you need some help or a beer drinking buddy |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13510 |
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I can drink just fine by myself thank you very much but I'm sure it would be nice to have an extra large hand. Bring a wetsuit we still ski mid week until the clocks change.
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Is anyone here familiar with Crow Custom Cast Welding in Hudson WI? They advertise in "Rudder" and I couldn't find any bad posts about them. I went there today with some H/M manifolds to have them pressure checked and have the drain holes repaired because corrosion has eaten away the threads on all of them exposing a bit of the water jacket. The owner, Buck, examined them and made suggestions for repair. It seems that it is a bit pricey and it looked like I may only be able to make one pair out of all the parts I have on my budget. He may have to cut off the outside of the water jacket and build up some bad spots then weld the piece back in. It apparently is frequently done with blocks, heads, cast iron and aluminum manifolds for restoration. I saw some of his work and a block he had just repaired and it looked really nice. Buck also has a process to clean and coat the interior with a type of plastic material that protects the aluminum if I chose to go that route. $though. Any guidance, comments?
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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John I believe Pete is. He has recommended them in the past. Don't know if you had heard, he is MIA
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Sorry to hear that Gary. Maybe a Chicago Beers search party is in order.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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skutsch
Grand Poobah Joined: June-19-2008 Location: Racine, WI Status: Offline Points: 2874 |
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John;
As Gary indicated Pete has recommended them a number of times here are a few of the links: Gray Marine Manifolds Holman Moody Manifolds Crusader Manifolds Barracuda Intake |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Thank you guys. You've put my mind at ease. Buck seemed very knowledgeable and I don't mind paying if I know I am getting a good job. Guess ill spring for the internal coating too. Buck said they will last practically forever in fresh water with it applied.
Buck showed me an antique engine in his shop I had never heard of. It was a Kerr-????? I don't remember the name. It was huge and it had 4 valves per cylinder. Pretty advanced for the late 20s or early 30s. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I have not been able to source the rubber U channel that insulates the windshield glass from the frame on my Mustang. Does anyone here have a source?
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Kermath |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Now who do you know that would even attempt that repair I have some but it's not quite the same as the original. It's on a roll and is made out of rubber and cork. I was told to soak it in kerosene to make it plyable then fold it over the glass and "tap" the frame on, the job is not for the faint of heart. I did the one side that was loose. You are welcome to what you need. I'll give you a call tonight if that's ok |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Have you checked the stock rubber extrusion profiles at McMaster? |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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The original was almost like gasket material and was only used in glazing, I spent a lot of time looking, the modern replacement is what I was only able to find
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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A modern replacement would be fine. I have not checked McMaster yet. Thanks for that. Really anything that works is acceptable. I have been to glass shops and they haven't been able to help me. I hope I don't go down on the "parts wanted" thread before I'm done with this.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I am trying to get my parts ducks in a row before the Mustang project re-boot. It has been sitting far too long and I NEED to get it done well before Green Lake. This current project has taken some of the Mustang time but it is nearly complete. There is light at the end of the tunnel. I should have the top properly adjusted before I go to bed tonight then off to the interior shop for some detail work on Monday.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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You just can't post pictures with no explanation
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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It's one of my brothers cars. He bought it last winter. It hadn't been driven since the mid 60s. I have been doing the leg work for the restoration and some of the details and adjustments. It has taken much more time than I thought at the beginning. The Mustang has suffered as a result. I will be done with it in about 2-3 weeks. This may sound odd to some but I am very comfortable working on cars, but I have little confidence when it comes to the Mustang. This forum is really intimidating. There is so much knowledge here and I don't know the proper techniques for much of the work. I am so thankful for all the help I hope I am up to the task.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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