Not another Mustang restoration thread.

John,
Are you using the new marty mabe dash?

John, Ive tried a few rotary cut off tools and they work ok- especially for tight spots... but they see very limited use. I have to say that our 4.5" angle grinder does pretty much all the heavy lifting when it comes to fiberglass. Having a diamond wheel and an assortment of stone grinding and flap sanding discs make it pretty darn versatile. We've put our Milwaukee through hell and back. If you dont already have one, I highly recommend it.

I recommend 3m for the respirators, this is where you don't skimp .

They look great. Pull off any loose glass and then re glass. I wouldn't worry about them if your lag bolts tighten up and everywhere you look, looks like that.

Tim, do you mean a grinder with a cutting cutting wheel and a flap disk to prepare the area? I am intimidated by the quality of the work I have seen you and others do. I will need to install a floor in this thing since I am going foamless. This will cause the floor to be higher than the original. Do you plane down the stringers to accommodate this? If so that brings the motor mounts into play. What is the best method to deal with this? The small cross member by the rear seat is rotten in an area and must be replaced and the area around the pylon needs repair because the PO put a Flyhigh in there and the diameter was greater than the original "skinny pylon". There are a few other areas that may need attention too but overall I think I will be better saving the original wood if I can.

While not entirely relevant since it sounds like you're using a floor pan, this picture might help stimulate some imagination for the engine mounts and exhaust passages.

This boat and my 70 Skier (Mustang hull without foam from the factory) both had supports for the floor crossing the primaries and secondaries. The motor mounts were notched like Tim described above.

I'd strongly suggest 5/8" ply as we tried both 1/2" and 3/4" and were not happy with either. Too thin with the 1/2" made it feel soggy, and the 3/4" was difficult to deal with.

We notched around the engine mounts which was how it was done originally. We went foamless, so went from 1/4" to 5/8" for the floor which is plenty strong in a Mustang or Cuda without additional support.

Hollywood wrote: I am easing into the Martinique this week too.

Looking forward to seeing some progress! I'll be over a few times in October if you need some help or a beer drinking buddy

Is anyone here familiar with Crow Custom Cast Welding in Hudson WI? They advertise in "Rudder" and I couldn't find any bad posts about them. I went there today with some H/M manifolds to have them pressure checked and have the drain holes repaired because corrosion has eaten away the threads on all of them exposing a bit of the water jacket. The owner, Buck, examined them and made suggestions for repair. It seems that it is a bit pricey and it looked like I may only be able to make one pair out of all the parts I have on my budget. He may have to cut off the outside of the water jacket and build up some bad spots then weld the piece back in. It apparently is frequently done with blocks, heads, cast iron and aluminum manifolds for restoration. I saw some of his work and a block he had just repaired and it looked really nice. Buck also has a process to clean and coat the interior with a type of plastic material that protects the aluminum if I chose to go that route. $though. Any guidance, comments?

Sorry to hear that Gary. Maybe a Chicago Beers search party is in order.

Thank you guys. You've put my mind at ease. Buck seemed very knowledgeable and I don't mind paying if I know I am getting a good job. Guess ill spring for the internal coating too. Buck said they will last practically forever in fresh water with it applied.
Buck showed me an antique engine in his shop I had never heard of. It was a Kerr-????? I don't remember the name. It was huge and it had 4 valves per cylinder. Pretty advanced for the late 20s or early 30s.

john b wrote: Buck showed me an antique engine in his shop I had never heard of. It was a Kerr-????? I don't remember the name. It was huge and it had 4 valves per cylinder. Pretty advanced for the late 20s or early 30s.

Kermath

Gary S wrote: john b wrote: I have not been able to source the rubber U channel that insulates the windshield glass from the frame on my Mustang. Does anyone here have a source? Now who do you know that would even attempt that repair I have some but it's not quite the same as the original. It's on a roll and is made out of rubber and cork. I was told to soak it in kerosene to make it plyable then fold it over the glass and "tap" the frame on, the job is not for the faint of heart. I did the one side that was loose. You are welcome to what you need. I'll give you a call tonight if that's ok

Have you checked the stock rubber extrusion profiles at McMaster?

A modern replacement would be fine. I have not checked McMaster yet. Thanks for that. Really anything that works is acceptable. I have been to glass shops and they haven't been able to help me. I hope I don't go down on the "parts wanted" thread before I'm done with this.

You just can't post pictures with no explanation