Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Certainly no rush ordering a shaft at this point.

Closing up for the night. I have the primaries shaped to the hull and the secondaries cut. Nothing was square originally but It didn't seem to matter. I'll work on shaping them tomorrow and getting everything square and the elevation equal across the stringers. If all goes well I may be able to start glassing them in before the weekend's over. I'm slow because I'm old and creaky but I'm moving forward.

Might want to test fit that hose.

Thanks for the heads up on the stuffing box hose Pete. Know any magicians? The stuffing box barb is 1.5" and the hose slips over nicely. The log barb is 1.74" and this hose has NO give. Hog the hose ID out? Should be interesting.

Try soaking the end in boiling water & then pounding it on.

Slow going but I have the auminum angle for my engine mount cut and measured. Some grinding and cleaning up, then do the other stringer. I used the 3/16 angle and plan to scallop the stringer and bolt through the angle when I get the engine positioned properly.

I'm back, despite popular demand that this thread disappear. I am trying to re-start this project.
I should have posted my Morse control questions here, but I erred, so I'm re-posting looking for advice..
I disassembled, cleaned, and lubed my Morse control, and other than some wear on the detent positions on the shaft, it cleaned up well. I did some online research and I think I have a Morse MV-1. I believe this was original to the boat. It is the one with the white knob. I have a second control (black knob) from the Mustang SS I sacraficed, an MV-2 perhaps? I know it wasn't original to the SS, the PO had removed the center console controls and installed this one. Maybe someone can identify it for me please. I suspect the throttle/shift shaft is interchangeable with mine.
I would like to confirm the shift and throttle arms were attached in the correct position in the last photo. I was unable to photograph it on disassembly because of it's position crammed into the gunwale. If anyone can confirm that the arms are in the proper positions in the last photo I would appreciate it. I reviewed an online video and it doesn't appear too complicated, but the control is a bit different than mine. online video
Any words of wisdom are appreciated.
Thanx.

Thank you Tim. There are a few differences between the two controls but their operation is the same
The control plate is backwards. I intend to route the cables forward, sweeping back to the engine between the stringers to eliminate the sharp bends where the stringer was originally notched for the cables to pass through. I think this is better routing and is possible since I am going foamless and installing a floor. I plan on routing them through PVC pipe to allow for service and replacement in the future. Same with the wiring harness. Any thoughts on this plan?

john b wrote: I'm getting ahead of myself with this stuffing box hose. The original looks to have been        1-1/2" ID jammed onto the 1-3/4 log barb. Looks like 2-ply exhaust hose. .Still has gel on it so I don't think it's been replaced. I'll think about it a little and deal with it when I get that far. Back to working on the stringers.

Skidim recommended buying some 1-3/4" soft wall radiator hose from an auto parts store and squeezing it down to 1-1/2 on the the stuffing box. Sounds sketchy to me. Does anyone have any advice they would like to share?

Why would an original hose there have gel on it?

Next step is fitting the 3/8 aluminum angle to the top of the stringers.This is my first inboard and I'm concerned about getting the elevation of the top of the mount correct. I am sure it is withing 1/2" of the original elevation and believe it is within 1/4, but it is hard to be certain even though I left tabs of the original floor as a guide. I will have about 6", 3" forward and 3" rearward of the original lag bolt locations. Can anyone tell me if this is withing an envelope that will allow the engine to aligned properly? I intend to drill and tap the 3/8 angle to hold the engine mounting bolts and cross bolt the angle to the stringer, I believe threading into the 3/8 angle is strong enough to hold the engine but would like an opinion on whether I should drill through it and back it with nut?

Both of mine had no wedges at the rear, only the front. That is why I think elevation is very important. That seems to complicate the alignment. The mounts, both front and rear, are cylindrical, they can swivel to sit parellel to any surface.

John,
Go towards the low side for elevation. You can always shim up for alignment.

I'm with Tim on 3/8 aluminum being not much to tap. Why not just lag down into the stringers like it was? The aluminum angle will still spread the load.

John,
This project has taken so much time, I forgot you were using Coosa. Sorrry!