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    Posted: October-01-2011 at 12:36pm
Unfortunately in northern Indiana it's time to put away the boat      We've a 1972 Martinique with the 318 Chrysler. This spring I added garden hose connections so that part is ready to go. My question are (1) What is the best recipe for winterizing antifreeze? (2) I assume I mix it up in containers and pull from those into the engine? (3) How much do I need to suck in to be confident the engine is protected? Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2011 at 12:42pm
Originally posted by lank lank wrote:

   My question are (1) What is the best recipe for winterizing antifreeze?

RV antifreeze and follow the procedure in the Chrysler manual. In brief, drain and pour.

Why did you add the garden hose connections? Certainly not with the intent of winterizing!!! If so, you are being misdirected.


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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2011 at 2:08pm
Just sucking up antifreeze wont work. If the T stat is closed, you'll just pump antifreeze out the exhaust. I do the recycle method, I catch what's coming out and recycle it until it gets very warm. Then take a hose loose and check the freezing point on what's inside the block. If you're using the pumping method, just remember the antifreeze will mix with the water that's already in the block, so don't add a bunch of water to it. Another way is take the thermostat out, and take a hose off that is low on the block and back fill with antifreeze into the intake at the t stat until the antifreeze push out the water from the disconnected hose. This might not work of some "plumbing" configurations.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-01-2011 at 11:53pm
Guys, pumping the AF with engine runnning, catching & recycle is the hard way to do it. Just drain all points & fill with AF. The Tstat has a bypass hole & doesn't need to be removed for fill.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2011 at 12:45am
The primary reason I added the garden hose connections was to be able run the boat on the trailer before putting it into the lake for the summer - avoid unpleasant surprises on the boat ramp. The marina I had winterize the boat last fall has an "antifreeze tank" in which they run inboards to winterize them. I made the leap of faith that I could accomplish the same thing using the garden hose connections. However it sounds like that may not be the best approach.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-02-2011 at 1:17am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Guys, pumping the AF with engine runnning, catching & recycle is the hard way to do it. Just drain all points & fill with AF. The Tstat has a bypass hole & doesn't need to be removed for fill.

Well said Chris!!    Plus, if the pour in method is used, (simpler!!) the block will fill from the the bottom porting off the circ pump so there's no need to worry about the T stat opening!!!       


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2011 at 12:16pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Why did you add the garden hose connections? Certainly not with the intent of winterizing!!! If so, you are being misdirected.

I disagree, Pete. I always run on the hose when I winterize. How else would you fog down the throat of the carb?

I always follow by draining and refilling, of course.

Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

Just sucking up antifreeze wont work. If the T stat is closed, you'll just pump antifreeze out the exhaust.

Not true. The thermostat controls the flow of water OUT of the intake, not in. If empty, the block,heads and intake will fill with fluid as soon as you introduce it via the circ pump, regardless of whether the engine is up to temp or not. This is one reason why you can pour antifreeze in at any temperature.

Still, I think the suck up/ recycle method is silly and overcomplicated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2011 at 7:56pm
"Not true. The thermostat controls the flow of water OUT of the intake, not in." I didn't say that water goes in the t stat, I was taking it that the block is already full of water and the circ pump can't send any more in, hence the extra water/antifreeze will be sent out the exhaust. So, block full of water, t stat closed, whatever is sucked up goes out the exhaust.

"If empty, the block,heads and intake will fill with fluid as soon as you introduce it via the circ pump, regardless of whether the engine is up to temp or not." If my engine was up to temp, I would hope it's already full of water and I wouldn't want it up to temp and introduce cold water instantly from either pump.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2011 at 8:10pm
At the risk of confusing things more...... Does it matter that my engine has the dual pocket Sherwood pump? This boat is my first inboard so I'm obviously learning how the plumbing works... but from some of the manuals I've found it seems some of the Chryslers had two seperate pumps - one pulling in raw water and another circulating it within the block. Is that true or am I misunderstanding? Regardless it seems that running on the hose to fog, then draining all points and filling with AF is the preferred approach?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2011 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

"Not true. The thermostat controls the flow of water OUT of the intake, not in." I didn't say that water goes in the t stat, I was taking it that the block is already full of water and the circ pump can't send any more in, hence the extra water/antifreeze will be sent out the exhaust. So, block full of water, t stat closed, whatever is sucked up goes out the exhaust.

Youre correct. I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you drained the block first before sucking up the a/f. Like was pointed out, you dont want to dilute marine/rv antifreeze with water at all. If using conventional (green) a/f, then it needs to be mixed at a specific ratio (fairly close to 1:1) for it to give effective freeze protection. There is no way to verify that you have the proper ratio unless you fill and recycle for quite a while to ensure uniformity, and then you must test the mixture. Seems overly complicated and painful. Why not just drain first?

Originally posted by Tim D Tim D wrote:

"If empty, the block,heads and intake will fill with fluid as soon as you introduce it via the circ pump, regardless of whether the engine is up to temp or not." If my engine was up to temp, I would hope it's already full of water and I wouldn't want it up to temp and introduce cold water instantly from either pump.

Again, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you drained the water first. Regardless, there is no harm in introducing cold water to a warm engine. It happens every time your thermostat opens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2011 at 8:47pm
Originally posted by lank lank wrote:

Regardless it seems that running on the hose to fog, then draining all points and filling with AF is the preferred approach?

Correct!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2011 at 9:03pm
Just drain the damn block and pour in the antifreeze!!!!! How much simpler can that be?? Actually just draining like many do is simpler!     It's been done for years and still is. I believe Eric still does it for certain customers who do not want to go to the added expense of the antifreeze treatment. Way back when I was at Watercraft in the late 60's - early 70's, draining only was common practice. It wasn't until cooling systems got more complicated that we started using extra protection with the antifreeze. Still, it was drain and pour!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2011 at 10:16am
Pete, the arsenic makes you irratible, lol yes, some i never antifreeze and im going into my, sht dont even know 15 ish year of doing the boat the same ways.
really, normal procedure for me is, fire until it runs smoothly,turn off, drain block and manifolds, and suck in 2 gallons of RZ AF, thermostat does not need to be open, when i see pink out the back im good to go. pretty damn good track record with this method 0/1000 the 200.00 deluxe package includes AF, the rest simply get drained, one thing i do is lift and lower the tongue of the trailer to insure the water is out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote watrski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2011 at 12:11pm
Amazing.

You guys can argue about this subject for years!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote waker319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2011 at 9:28pm
i live in central california and temperature hardly gets in the 40s high 30s at night.. i was thinking about just draining the block and exhaust and dont add anything.... is that a bad idea? boat is under a carport with a cover on, i plan on throwing some blankets over the engine to keep it warmer... what do you guys say?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2011 at 9:31pm
Originally posted by waker319 waker319 wrote:

i was thinking about just draining the block and exhaust and dont add anything.... is that a bad idea?

So long as you drain everything properly, you'll have all the freeze protection you need- at any temperature. You can probably skip the blankets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2011 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

You can probably skip the blankets.

Agreed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 10:05am
I average 3 to 5 cracked engines a year, these are the guys that dont do anything at all to winterize, i dont get, do they forget?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-05-2011 at 10:31am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

I average 3 to 5 cracked engines a year, i dont get, do they forget?


The year before I did my engine, I looked into having it done by a shop...all across town they were backed up with frozen engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-06-2011 at 10:09am
darn it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote waker319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2011 at 4:25am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2011 at 10:52am
The manual is best & easiest way. 5 plugs to drain: 2 on block, 2 on manifold, 1 on elbow at front of engine.

Pull hoses off of Oil cooler & RWP, let them drain too. Pour AF into hose that leads to engine. Your done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2011 at 11:11am
Originally posted by waker319 waker319 wrote:

anyone want to share a PROPER way to drain an engine?? i have a pretty clear idea by looking up the manual, but since its my first time working on a inboard engine i'd like to hear it from someone whos personally done it...
i always find shortcuts or better (easier) ways to do it than following step by step instructions from the manual if you know what i mean..

The manual is actually a great reference.

Winterization thread with pictures
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote waker319 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2011 at 9:16pm
great, thanks!!

is it necessary to add anti-freeze tho?
if so, which type?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2011 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by waker319 waker319 wrote:

great, thanks!!

is it necessary to add anti-freeze tho?
if so, which type?

not given,
No it's not but it's an "insurance" policy.

BTW, the on site search feature is great. If you searched, you would have come up with the answers!!


If you care to, at least add your first name to your profile. If you stick with us, (please do) you will find most do go by first names on CCfan. Then, I won't have to call you "not given"

Tell us more about the boat and yourself. Also, make sure you have all the info needed for Keith to enter you in the diaries section!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adamt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2011 at 5:53am
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

...when i see pink out the back im good to go.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2011 at 10:54am
im more of a pink in the front kinda guy Adam
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2011 at 1:36am
My Air Nautique owner's manual. "Fill engine with a solution of 50% antifreeze. This helps prevent drying out the seals and gaskets, preventing the formation of hard dry scale in the water jackets and prevents freezing damage due to isolated pockets of trapped water that remains in the block."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2011 at 11:28am
that of course is with green antifreeze, the 50/50 thing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2011 at 6:09pm
Ahh yes. The annual thread....

I kept looking for the -100* stuff this year. Still cannot find it. Back to the pink stuff (up front)

I still do not agree about pouring it in vs. sucking it in, in my case. You aren't pouring it in on a BBC in a Vdrive. And the stat on the 289 is vertical. It's is just easier to draw in it from a bucket on both these crafts.
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