NSS Confusion

Scott,
Do you know if the start relay (solenoid) is getting power and energizing? You should be able to hear it click. Check for power on the cable going to the starter when you turn the key to the start position. We'll go on from there.

Did I post the wiring diagram for you? Do you have it? It will come in handy when we dig into the problem!!

EDIT: I just went back through your first thread about the problem and found I hadn't posted the wiring diagram so, here it is:



The only problem is this diagram doesn't show the NSS but, it in line with the white wire between the "S" term on the key switch and the coil them on the start relay.

Did you ever check the cable adjustment??

Scott,
You have a meter correct?? When the key switch is turned to the start position, You should see 12 volt nominal at the small white wire on the relay. That's the coil hot coming from the ignition switch via the NSS. Check it and get back.

When this happens if you giggle the throttle forward and back about 1/4" does the boat start? The morse control may be a little worn and not resting dead center in neutral or the trans shift cable is slightly out of adjustment.

Riley wrote: I recently had this problem and it turned out to be the wire that leads to the solinoid that kicks the starter over had been resting on the hot part of the exhaust manifold and had burned right through.

I'll check this out tomorrow or soon and let you know. It was just too hot out in the garage today to mess with it. Thanks.

UPDATE:

Just got back from a two week vacation on the lake. Probably put 30 hours on the boat.

No problems with this anymore. Don't remember if I told everyone how we fixed it so here goes. Back in January, we were trying everything to fix this problem including leaving the ignition on when I accidently touched the fuse holder directly above the ignition switch. It was so HOT it would almost burn your hand, if fact it would if you held it for a few seconds. Found out the problem was one wire on the back of the fuse holder was about 1/3 or 1/2 way connected. My friend John said that if that female wire is not all the way conncected to the male terminal, the load is too much and caused the fuse connector to get hot and not work and thus no ignition.

We pushed the wire all the way up, made sure all the other wires on the ignition were fully connected and the problem I have had for years is fixed, and at no cost. Started every time this summer no matter how much driving I did.