1950 CC Junior Utility Restoration

juniorwoody wrote: Keegan is right about shopping around and I thank him for that guidance. I have determined that the difference in weight per bd ft between oak and dfir. Oak weighs in at 4.2 lb bd ft and dfir weighs in at 2.6 per bd ft. We are not talking a lot of material here so is weight really a factor? Would love to find mahogany to do it in. Far as the fasteners breaking in 40 yrs of woodworking and cabinetmaking I've learned to deal with that. What kind of mahogany was that species?

Jack,
Silicon bronze fastenings and no matter what type of lumber you put back in, I highly recommend a CPES treatment.

BTW, with only the Gray 4-75 engine, the extra weight may make a difference. CC had higher HP options. Still, a Junior with the 75 should move along at about 35 but you may have to throw you wife overboard to compensate for the White Oak's extra weight!

Air206 wrote: DrCC wrote: Oh, Yes I do believe the ACBS Is truly a very wonderful group of fine people. This still has me laughing! LOL Oh, the good DrCC!!!!

Steve,
Well, as a ACBS member, this puts me in a "tight spot" since I feel the comment was sarcastic?? If it was, I love you too!!

8122pbrainard wrote: Air206 wrote: DrCC wrote: Oh, Yes I do believe the ACBS Is truly a very wonderful group of fine people. This still has me laughing! LOL Oh, the good DrCC!!!! Steve, Well, as a ACBS member, this puts me in a "tight spot" since I feel the comment was sarcastic?? If it was, I love you too!!

Pete,

First of all..... Love ya Man! What had me laughing was the link.... I don't think anyone looked at the hyperlink.... what a wild bunch of double speak! Wayyy too funny ......

BTW - I am easily distracted on this site..... I follow link after link after link..... sometimes it actually pays off!

I could have sworn I've heard someone say that
Sarcasm was the most flattering form of affection.

If anyone would have bothered getting out the tape measure they'd find all stringers were 1 5/8".

DrCC wrote: If anyone would have bothered getting out the tape measure they'd find all stringers were 1 5/8".

Wow, now I'll need to take the tape measure and see what the X55's and the Atom's stringer thickness is!! The X55 has Sitka Spruce and the Atom of course has the Mahogany.

Al,
BTW it's not a "newsletter" but a magazine and it's called the "Rudder".
When was the last time you took a look at it? I've been a member since 1979 and have always found it to be a wonderful group. Of course the local chapter does make a big difference. You must have a bunch of AH's down by you!!

boat dr wrote: DrCC wrote: Three most common places for un-seen rot - transom frames, inner chine and keel. Thru bolt #1 on the gripe, this is a laminate of ply stripping to acheive the sten to keel transition.I still have a small leak on the Starflite at that bolt, go figure. Poor choice for durabilty ? I have four that lasted 60 years,but cheap to build and quick to plank, send her out..........

Billy,
You are correct as far as this being a problem area and I did forget to mention it. It's the low spot of almost evey older wood hull. It's more of a problem with double planked hulls. The water sitting/trapped between the two layers seems to contribute to rot at that point. Yes, CC went real cheap (as well a other areas) on the stem and used ply to laminate up the curvature of the stem. Then, tried to mate it with the inner and outer keel with layering the lamination's. The ply lamination with only their bedding compound to seal it quickly sucked up the water. BTW, what I found is they even used short lengths of scraps to laminate their stems!! Plus junk ply and NAILS!!!!!

Every time a topic like this comes up and we talk about the old "hackers" out there in the CC shop comes up, I shutter!!

DRCC, Gotta disagree with your reasoning on the cost of membership.The magazine is first class, the best friends money can buy at any show.We are members of a chapter 550 miles from us, the chapter closest to us just did not "FIT". We kept our membership in ACBS and found a chapter better suited to our needs" Sunnyland Chapter" in cental Florida was the home we were looking for.
You sure are missing a lot, IMHO.....35.00 wont give me an afternoon ride....

come on guys the stems aren't that bad.


Billy is you stem actually plywood? Mine was at least mahagony.

If the stem in that boat is suspect you will never get it repaired without pulling it apart, it is a lot of work but woth it when it comes out solid as a rock

Well actually the entire stem would be two piece with one "S" joint.

Al, that link was a riot. The ACBS does a great job of putting on shows. From what I've seen around here their members aren't into Correct Crafts. There's definitely way more knowledge and interest on CCF.

81nautique wrote: DrCC wrote: In fact this would be one area where I would re-build the bow stem with one piece of over dimension stock like a Chris Craft. Yes a traditional stem and gripe would make things easier than building a laminated one like I did. No jig to build, no steaming, no glue up. That was a quite a time consuming process.

You did a fine piece of work on the stem rebuild. Did you put all new hull material on also? I was trying to stay away from that but do have some marine ply if needed. Thought about making the stem from solid material and in a few pieces. The modern glues are more friendly than resourcinol and perhaps with a strategic reassembly and reglueing in place I may be able to get the repair accomplished. Remains to be seen. I have made many a chair with steam bending and the process though time consuming can be rewarding as is apparent in your stem rebuild.

juniorwoody wrote: 81nautique wrote: DrCC wrote: In fact this would be one area where I would re-build the bow stem with one piece of over dimension stock like a Chris Craft. Yes a traditional stem and gripe would make things easier than building a laminated one like I did. No jig to build, no steaming, no glue up. That was a quite a time consuming process. You did a fine piece of work on the stem rebuild. Did you put all new hull material on also? I was trying to stay away from that but do have some marine ply if needed. Thought about making the stem from solid material and in a few pieces. The modern glues are more friendly than resourcinol and perhaps with a strategic reassembly and reglueing in place I may be able to get the repair accomplished. Remains to be seen. I have made many a chair with steam bending and the process though time consuming can be rewarding as is apparent in your stem rebuild.

Yes my project has new bottom and topside planking as I had several frame repairs to make. You'd have to refasten the hull side & bottom plywood to the new stem anyway so might as well just remove the fasteners and let the ply move away from the stem a few inches so you can get good access. It is done all the time without complete removal and you'll know exactly what you've got for a structure, might find some rot in the chines at the stem that need addressing.

Jack,
That hull isn't that heavy. If you have the manpower, you can roll it over on a few old tires and movers blankets. Just screw some temporary bracing between the gunnels. I'd "X" brace low to high on a couple of frames.

Jack,
What are you planning on doing with the chewed up ply hull sides where it meets the stem. Hopefully you're not just planning on covering it up with a cutwater - That Junior never came with one and that wouldn't be very original!! I suggest seeing how far you would need to cut the ply back and then rebuild the stem (and deck) accordingly. No one is going to get a tape measure out to see if the hull is 3/4" shorter than it should be (CC never got them that close anyway! ) plus you do not want to get into scarfing new ply together for the hull sides.