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EFI Conversion on a 76 PCM 351W

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2011 at 9:40pm
Ya, easy on the new guy, WTF!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-10-2012 at 2:42am
Hey 28_Off,
How did the O2 sensor hold out this season? I'm really curious to find out how well it's working. I want to go EFI closed loop on a system I'm building.

Thanks,
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-06-2013 at 9:29pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

This first picture is an adapter I made for PCM manifolds which I never installed but think it should work. The later is the one for my logs which again worked long enough for tuning but failed later. Both versions install between the manifold and elbow.


Alan do you still have the above adapter for the PCM manifolds? If so are you willing to sell?

Looking to data log the fuel mapping on a standard GT40.

Thanks Lewy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2019 at 3:37pm
Did you end up using sandwich adapter or plumb in through the side of riser ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2019 at 4:00pm
Havent performed the swap yet. Im lookin at an adapter that goes in the side of the upper riser
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2019 at 1:56pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Location of the o2 sensor is always an issue because any moisture and it's toast. I think you should be ok there but time will tell, please keep this thread going after you get it running and report back with results/issues.



I played around with making an adapter for an o2 sensor a while ago so I could hook up an air/fuel meter for engine tuning, that was a semi success because it worked for a while but I killed 2 sensors from moisture as the final sensor placement on my log manifolds was too close to the water entry. I don't think it takes much to ruin an 02 sensor.



This first picture is an adapter I made for PCM manifolds which I never installed but think it should work. The later is the one for my logs which again worked long enough for tuning but failed later. Both versions install between the manifold and elbow.











Good luck with your project, sounds like fun.


I run very similar O2 sensor adapters on a Megasqirt MS3X for about 3 years now, no problems. I went further converted to real full sequential fuel injection, full sequential spark and coil near plug setup with 2 O2 sensors.
I run way better then the original setup but removing the distributer made a huge difference.
I use a marine grade fuel pump and flame arrestor the ECU is in the front under the dashboard. This should keep it save from exploding especially with the distributor gone there are no more sparks in the engine compartment.
I also setup a warnings for low fuel pressure in case I have a fuel leak somewhere the warning automatically disables the starter.

Peter



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2019 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by Peter6000 Peter6000 wrote:



I run very similar O2 sensor adapters on a Megasqirt MS3X for about 3 years now, no problems. I went further converted to real full sequential fuel injection, full sequential spark and coil near plug setup with 2 O2 sensors.
I run way better then the original setup but removing the distributer made a huge difference.
I use a marine grade fuel pump and flame arrestor the ECU is in the front under the dashboard. This should keep it save from exploding especially with the distributor gone there are no more sparks in the engine compartment.
I also setup a warnings for low fuel pressure in case I have a fuel leak somewhere the warning automatically disables the starter.

Peter


May be a silly question, but if low oil pressure disables the starter, how do you start it normally with no oil pressure?

If you have a fuel leak and it's running, who cares if the starter is disabled?

Or do you maybe mean that the ignition system gets disabled and the engine quits?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2019 at 1:14pm
Its fuel pressure, if you turn on ign. the pump runs for 10 sec and builds up pressure. If the pressure drops due to a leak the starter get disabled and a alarm goes off.
You can set several different conditions and program the response like turn off power or disable starter. This is very flexible.
For example you can create a window for your oil pressure shut off by rpm.
Peter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2019 at 1:28pm
Got it, fuel pressure

So if there's a fuel leak, the alarm goes off and disables the starter, but the engine keeps running till you turn it off or it stalls, then you can't restart it?

It seems like by the time you get the low fuel pressure, maybe you've had the fire already with pressurized fuel spraying around under the engine box and hitting the hot exhaust manifolds before the water jacketed area

What's the normal fuel pressure and what's the low pressure setpoint?

Must have the low oil pressure shutoff on the fuel pump to stop the flow of fuel so you don't continue feeding the fire if it started

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2019 at 8:35am
Funny I thought I typed a response yesterday guess it did not stick.
As of now I only monitor fuel pressure at start up to avoid starting the engine with fuel leak.
Leak on running engine is a good point I will put that on my to do list for the winter.
My fuel pressure goes to 52 psi ign. on eng. off, my idle pressure is 45 psi. my set point is at 38. I have tested this a small leak will drop the pressure fairly quick.
The set point and the response can be programmed to everything.
Non of these are available on the original setup so I feel a little saver with this even if it does not have the "marine approved" stamp on it.
Peter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-03-2019 at 8:34pm
Well, now I guess now we both know what the other one was thinking   

Having read your other posts here and on other websites, I think you should put your whole project into one thread, cause it sounds like a pretty interesting upgrade to a gt40 or really any other 351w for that matter.

You might get some comments from those who are stuck in the stone age, but plenty of people would find it interesting

That "marine approved" stamp is getting to be more and more of a gray area all the time it seems
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 8:46am
Keno, I agree I actually felt attacked by some by some fellow skiers that love there carburetor. I understand the connection, carburetors are incredible mechanical inventions.
My background is in electronics and IT therefor processor controlled systems are more my cup of tee.
I'm actually working on a complete report of the conversion I still need to tape some videos. I hope I find some time during the winter season. When complete I start a new post here and in the other forum.

And 28_OFF I did a quick google but could not find a lot of info on the Projection III kit would it allow for spark control as well. How do you control it, is there a tuning software with it?
BTW I like how clean your engine looks I feel inspired to clean up mine and put some paint on it in Spring.

Peter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 9:14am
I think 28_OFF just plain vanished, his last time logged in was a little over 7 years ago

Rosconole dragged this thread back from the grave after a 6 year "nap", but a write up on yours at some point would be interesting
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 9:20am
+1 I’m curious as to what engine you converted in the first place - a carbed engine or a GT 40 ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 10:08am
I converted a 1999 GT40 so I already had 8 fuel injectors installed and a working fuel pump system. here is a quick summery of the steps I did.
I purchased the boat with a blown engine and had it completely rebuild.and drilled to the biggest size. This create a problem with the vintage ford open loop ECU.
Bad idle and bad hot start.

Here are the steps:
-build Megasquirt MS3X
-Build adapter to have plug and play
-set up MS3X to imitate old Ford ECU
     (batch fire fuel injection, TFI ignition with distributor)
     now I was able to control the spark and fuel map and fix the idle and hot start
     performance was the same as the Ford ECU
-added 2 O2 sensors /absolutely necessary for tuning the engine /now autotune works
-added a crank toothed wheel and sensor for better timing
-converted the distributer to a cam sensor for full sequential fuel and spark
-removed distributor and put 2 quat spark coils in place
-replace fuel pressure regulator with adjustable version
    (needed more fuel at full throttle)
-added/replace 2 knock sensors (better save the sorry)
-added permanent fuel pressure sensor
-at this point I had to change the wiring, the ford connector did not work well
I removed/converted the wiring harness all new waterproof connectors.
no more going back to Ford ECU.
-re tuned the engine to full seq. fuel and spark run autotune for a couple of hours
-added several alarms like fuel+oil pressure, temp++ to trigger check engine, limp mode
or engine off

now the engine runs, idles and starts like dream

plans for the winter
-replace rest of distributor with ford cam sensor
-add digital dash board with GPS speed and all gauges (almost done)
-ad CAN bus to get more sensor readings
   like: speed from paddle wheel, exhaust temp., lake water temp,+++
-Integrate perfect pass maybe even drive by wire for throttle control
   my perfect pass controller is dead I plan on using a Arduino to replace it
   but this maybe next winter.

Peter


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 12:19pm
Was just out there looking for other folk that may have gone down this route of no more carb rebuilds and better throttle response.

Been busy on the road cashin checks and breaking necks but here is where I am leaning to , I have just about figured out all the details on hurdles will need to cross.

https://www.holley.com/products/marine_and_powersports/marine/sniper_efi_marine/sniper_efi_4150_marine/parts/550-511

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_4bbl_tbi_kits/sniper_4bbl_tbi_master_kits_with_fuel_system/parts/550-511K

I know the Hose isn't probably USCG cert but it would get it up and running.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by Peter6000 Peter6000 wrote:

I converted a 1999 GT40 so I already had 8 fuel injectors installed and a working fuel pump system. here is a quick summery of the steps I did.
I purchased the boat with a blown engine and had it completely rebuild.and drilled to the biggest size. This create a problem with the vintage ford open loop ECU.
Bad idle and bad hot start.

Here are the steps:
-build Megasquirt MS3X
-Build adapter to have plug and play
-set up MS3X to imitate old Ford ECU
     (batch fire fuel injection, TFI ignition with distributor)
     now I was able to control the spark and fuel map and fix the idle and hot start
     performance was the same as the Ford ECU
-added 2 O2 sensors /absolutely necessary for tuning the engine /now autotune works
-added a crank toothed wheel and sensor for better timing
-converted the distributer to a cam sensor for full sequential fuel and spark
-removed distributor and put 2 quat spark coils in place
-replace fuel pressure regulator with adjustable version
    (needed more fuel at full throttle)
-added/replace 2 knock sensors (better save the sorry)
-added permanent fuel pressure sensor
-at this point I had to change the wiring, the ford connector did not work well
I removed/converted the wiring harness all new waterproof connectors.
no more going back to Ford ECU.
-re tuned the engine to full seq. fuel and spark run autotune for a couple of hours
-added several alarms like fuel+oil pressure, temp++ to trigger check engine, limp mode
or engine off

now the engine runs, idles and starts like dream

plans for the winter
-replace rest of distributor with ford cam sensor
-add digital dash board with GPS speed and all gauges (almost done)
-ad CAN bus to get more sensor readings
   like: speed from paddle wheel, exhaust temp., lake water temp,+++
-Integrate perfect pass maybe even drive by wire for throttle control
   my perfect pass controller is dead I plan on using a Arduino to replace it
   but this maybe next winter.

Peter




Now I may be about as sharp as a bowling ball, but I don't see where any of what you've done has really affected the "marine certification " or whatever of your engine.

You still have most of the injection system like the injectors, throttle body, marine fuel pump. You're basically just controlling it all with a different ECU that doesn't say marine in it's description. (And it 's not even in the engine compartment)

I'd bet that the original Ford ECU has no "marine" pedigree of any kind, otherwise those people replacing theirs with a reprogrammed automotive one have some issues

You have a marine starter and alternator I'd assume and you mentioned having a marine flame arrestor

Maybe your fuel lines are questionable?

Tell me what I'm missing   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2019 at 6:25pm
Ive since decided to go 6.0 LS swap since my boat factory chevy anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2019 at 12:50am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by Peter6000 Peter6000 wrote:

I converted a 1999 GT40 so I already had 8 fuel injectors installed and a working fuel pump system. here is a quick summery of the steps I did.
I purchased the boat with a blown engine and had it completely rebuild.and drilled to the biggest size. This create a problem with the vintage ford open loop ECU.
Bad idle and bad hot start.

Here are the steps:
-build Megasquirt MS3X
-Build adapter to have plug and play
-set up MS3X to imitate old Ford ECU
     (batch fire fuel injection, TFI ignition with distributor)
     now I was able to control the spark and fuel map and fix the idle and hot start
     performance was the same as the Ford ECU
-added 2 O2 sensors /absolutely necessary for tuning the engine /now autotune works
-added a crank toothed wheel and sensor for better timing
-converted the distributer to a cam sensor for full sequential fuel and spark
-removed distributor and put 2 quat spark coils in place
-replace fuel pressure regulator with adjustable version
    (needed more fuel at full throttle)
-added/replace 2 knock sensors (better save the sorry)
-added permanent fuel pressure sensor
-at this point I had to change the wiring, the ford connector did not work well
I removed/converted the wiring harness all new waterproof connectors.
no more going back to Ford ECU.
-re tuned the engine to full seq. fuel and spark run autotune for a couple of hours
-added several alarms like fuel+oil pressure, temp++ to trigger check engine, limp mode
or engine off

now the engine runs, idles and starts like dream

plans for the winter
-replace rest of distributor with ford cam sensor
-add digital dash board with GPS speed and all gauges (almost done)
-ad CAN bus to get more sensor readings
   like: speed from paddle wheel, exhaust temp., lake water temp,+++
-Integrate perfect pass maybe even drive by wire for throttle control
   my perfect pass controller is dead I plan on using a Arduino to replace it
   but this maybe next winter.

Peter




Now I may be about as sharp as a bowling ball, but I don't see where any of what you've done has really affected the "marine certification " or whatever of your engine.

You still have most of the injection system like the injectors, throttle body, marine fuel pump. You're basically just controlling it all with a different ECU that doesn't say marine in it's description. (And it 's not even in the engine compartment)

I'd bet that the original Ford ECU has no "marine" pedigree of any kind, otherwise those people replacing theirs with a reprogrammed automotive one have some issues

You have a marine starter and alternator I'd assume and you mentioned having a marine flame arrestor

Maybe your fuel lines are questionable?

Tell me what I'm missing   



Its no where near a Ford ECU , Megasquirt was designed to be go between a stock EFI system and a full blown sequential wideband EFI system for cost effectiveness and tune-ability , But you would realize its now a crank triggered coil on plug system now if you read what he said.. Which is similar to LS in nature or design to later Ford or Lincoln. Its all really the same when it comes to EFI marine PCM might have some coated circuit board and all weatherpack connectors and programming , they may have a slightly different pin locations and harness. . But for the most part you can rob parts from a ford truck or a mustang of similar year. The starter/alternator may be different and fuel line probably is for obvious reasons. If you recall the red and white SN that had a gt40 motor out of ford lighting that was definitely not anything ford "marine" I think it went every bit of 60 or I heard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2019 at 5:59am
Now Rosco

If you read what I said and asked you'd probably realize that I read everything he wrote and I asked him (Peter) what made his setup non marine (or any less "marine".

I never said it was anything like a Ford ECU, just said it was a different ECU.

I guess you'll have to give a refresher or maybe a link to the red and white SN you're talking about with the lightning motor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2019 at 8:56am
Rosco,
the sniper looks like a good option the big benefit I see is the easy install, autotune and very compact. From what I can see the autotune is it, you can’t change spark and fuel tables manually to fine tune your setup.
I did not see a knock sensor these are a must have if you want to tune your spark timing to max. Without you take the risk of going to fare and blow your engine.
It can control spark timing but will not allow you to eliminate the distributor.
My MS3X has autotune as well and it got it running almost perfect. I used manual tune to optimize idle. I barely touched accel enrichment (responsible for throttle response) and top end tune.

Keno,
The only thing I can see not being confirm with USCG on my setup is the ECU itself and I really don’t care. I strongly believe the USCG stamp is not what prevents the explosion it’s the regular high quality maintenance that really keeps you save.
The Ford ECU is a exactly the same as an automotive ECU, at least I could not see any difference besides the software its running.

Rosco,
You are correct this is not even close to the Ford ECU but it does not and is not designed to go in between stock ECU and EFI. The MS3X is a complete standalone ECU that replaces the existing ECU.
I have never heard anything about red and white serial numbers can you explain?

Peter



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AlfaDon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2019 at 3:24pm
I can't believe it's been 3 days and I haven't responded to the thread yet. I have a hard time logging in from my phone and so have to wait until I'm at home.

Peter, I appreciate what you're doing and I'm going down much the same road except that it's taking me forever to get it done.

I am using the Howell EFI O2 adapter with a wideband A/F sensor in one of my manifolds It's worked great for 2 seasons now and it's nice to have just to monitor the mixture. I built a new HP motor and wanted to make sure I didn't go lean.   I also use a cheap anti-fouling elbow that I got on ebay. I believe it helps to keep the O2 sensor out of the steam stream. The idea of sequential spark sounds great although I've heard that batch fire is nearly as effective

I also have the coil near plug set up using a modded Cam sensor from a Ford 4.3, as it's the same dist shaft diameter as the 351 dist. I had a friend weld up the sensor top to an old 351 dist base. There's also a guy online that makes them up just for this purpose.

I struggled with the Microsquirt. I have a MS2 that I never used because of the fear of explosions. I also heard that they can be difficult to tune. I ended up going with a Holley HP ECU. This article says that they're marine approved but other components in an EFI system might not be. (https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/custom-efi-configurations/converting-marine-engines-to-efi). I'm hoping the HP ECU's self tuning feature will take care if it. It's a potted ECU which takes care of sparks.

If you're using all of the mechanical fuel lines and hardware from the GT40 setup I think you should be fine. I just bought the PCM Fuel Control Cell from Nautique parts on their Black Friday sale. One of the problems with the Fuel pump issues is that the fuel line from the tank can't be pressurized. It has to be a vacuum from a mechanical or electric fuel pump that needs to be within 12" of the motor. I believe with the FCC, I can return the extra fuel to the FCC, although if I have to run a return to the tank it will have already been done already by PCM, and I'm just following what has been CG approved. The benefit of the return line to the tank is that it cools the fuel much better than returning it to the FCC

Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2019 at 6:03pm
Originally posted by Peter6000 Peter6000 wrote:


I use a marine grade fuel pump and flame arrestor the ECU is in the front under the dashboard.


Since Peter has his ECU outside the engine compartment, the chances of it causing an explosion must be a little less than "slim to none"

To me, I see no issues at all with his setup especially compared to some of the distributors, carburetors, fuel pumps and alternators that some people are using around here on CCF.

PS for Peter, the red and white SN would be a Ski Nautique not serial numbers
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Silence from Pete (8122pbrainard) = concurrence??????
What are the odds he agrees with Keno on this one???
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Originally posted by burban65 burban65 wrote:

Silence from Pete (8122pbrainard) = concurrence??????
What are the odds he agrees with Keno on this one???


Are you instigatin' or what?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-05-2019 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by burban65 burban65 wrote:

Silence from Pete (8122pbrainard) = concurrence??????
What are the odds he agrees with Keno on this one???


Are you instigatin' or what?


Yup, sounds like we do have an instigator.

I'm not saying anything since I'm barely beyond a point set in a distributor.   


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2019 at 1:10am
You can manually change quite a bit , Its basically the same software that they run the Dominator, HP, systems etc. I messaged a fellow that has it on a twin turbo SBF in a little jet boat, he said the only hurdle he had to cross was changing the fueling tables below where the self tuning comes into play 160 degrees I think it is and there are different linkages you can get so the throttle blades open as a traditional carb, The opening of all 4 seemed to be a bit much out of the gate on a boat or rock crawler buggy. You can control timing through the software if you get the dual sync distributor. You can also set some limiting factors to keep burning it up. A knock sensor is a deal breaker. I think it has some open sensor ports if you wanted to ad one.


Originally posted by Peter6000 Peter6000 wrote:

Rosco,
the sniper looks like a good option the big benefit I see is the easy install, autotune and very compact. From what I can see the autotune is it, you can’t change spark and fuel tables manually to fine tune your setup.
I did not see a knock sensor these are a must have if you want to tune your spark timing to max. Without you take the risk of going to fare and blow your engine.
It can control spark timing but will not allow you to eliminate the distributor.
My MS3X has autotune as well and it got it running almost perfect. I used manual tune to optimize idle. I barely touched accel enrichment (responsible for throttle response) and top end tune.

Keno,
The only thing I can see not being confirm with USCG on my setup is the ECU itself and I really don’t care. I strongly believe the USCG stamp is not what prevents the explosion it’s the regular high quality maintenance that really keeps you save.
The Ford ECU is a exactly the same as an automotive ECU, at least I could not see any difference besides the software its running.

Rosco,
You are correct this is not even close to the Ford ECU but it does not and is not designed to go in between stock ECU and EFI. The MS3X is a complete standalone ECU that replaces the existing ECU.
I have never heard anything about red and white serial numbers can you explain?

Peter



1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra 1998 5.0 Magazine shootout invitee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2019 at 5:17am
Originally posted by AlfaDon AlfaDon wrote:



One of the problems with the Fuel pump issues is that the fuel line from the tank can't be pressurized. It has to be a vacuum from a mechanical or electric fuel pump that needs to be within 12" of the motor.
Don


Don

Somebody at some of those other companies obviously missed that memo or maybe they're slipping one by the USCG when they build their fuel injected boats/engines

Take a look at let's say Mastercraft or Malibu with Indmar injected engines for a long time now. They cleverly hid that pump in the gas tank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2019 at 5:23am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by burban65 burban65 wrote:

Silence from Pete (8122pbrainard) = concurrence??????
What are the odds he agrees with Keno on this one???


Are you instigatin' or what?


Yup, sounds like we do have an instigator.

I'm not saying anything since I'm barely beyond a point set in a distributor.   


Don't let Pete fool you, we've been kinda quietly working together on a kit to convert your gt40 engine back to points and carburetors.

We're having trouble right now adapting the Carter YH's to a 351w manifold mostly because he has me working on the fuel side of things while he does the ignition side.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter6000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-06-2019 at 8:30am
Sorry for the silence, unfortunately this forum is not compatible with Taptalk and I can’t get it to work on my phone in a comfortable way.

Don,
I have my O2 sensors in the adapter plate for 3 years now and they still work. I had to re-calibrate them once.
Here is my experience with sequential fuel and spark, going from batch fire to full sequential fuel injection made a big difference in idle quality and throttle response. In the range between 2000 and 4000 rpm I didn’t really feel a difference but I was able to change my AFR from 14 to 14.6, without losing performance.
Going to full sequential spark and eliminate the distributer had more impact, way better start up, engine is more responsive and runs super smooth I had to tune the fuel table down.
Looking at the Holly setup I agree that the Megasquirt is more difficult and not build as well. My main reason 3 years ago to choose the MS was the extreme flexibility of the MS.
I still think it’s very unlikely that it catches on fire it’s in a metal housing and fused with 5 Amp or so.

The Fuel return on the GT40 goes from the regulator back to the high pressure pump and you have to have it or you pressure is going to be too high. I agree it would be better to run it back to the tank. As an alternative you could put a more modern fuel pump in the tank control it with the ECU and a fuel pressure sensor and get rid of the mechanical regulator. I don’t know if it would work without a return considering heat.

Brings up the question do the newer boats with fuel pump in the tank still have a return line?


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