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1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration

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SWANY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 10:35am
It probably wasn't the best picture to show the tubing... Its that lighter color blue line in the C channel. Blue obviously for cold water supply (best matching tubing I could find without trying to paint. Made my "wiring harness", soldered and heat wrap then pulled it through the pipe with a fish tape. Pita. Secured every 30" along the frame.
I don't like seeing wires and I hope it will eliminate any possible shorts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 12:10pm
Joel, Pete,
I like the idea of the PEX or PVC. Couple of questions.
1-How did you handle the dropouts to the marker and clearance lights?
2-How did you secure the conduit/pipe to the trailer?

On another note, after spending a good amount of time looking around on CCF and a few other websites I finally convinced myself what the correct part number is for the Felpro 1-piece oil pan gasket for marine use. Here are a few Summit part numbers for those in a similar situation.

Felpro 1-piece oil pan gasket-17998
Felpro valve cover gaskets-VS13264T
Felpro Timing cover gasket set-TCS45449
Melling standard volume, standard pressure oil pump-M83
ARP-Oil Pump Driveshaft - 154-7901
Timing chain and gear set- Double roller with steel sprokets-CCA-2138

Got all of that for $176 with free shipping. The oil pan gasket was $45, which is about 1/2 what it is from some of the dedicated marine supply houses. Plus, the dedicated marine supply houses will not list the part number.

I am still looking for the correct part number for the oil pressure and water temperature sending units. If anyone knows what they are could you please share?

On another, nother note. I pulled the hubs apart last night to check the bearing and races out. The grease seals were pretty much finished off and the evidence was the grease splatter all over the inside of the wheels and axle. The part number on mine was 171255TC. Etrailer has a direct replacement set of 2 from TruRyde, which is a double lip seal; part number RG06-050. Cost was $5.49 for the set of 2. Hoping to get the hubs cleaned up and primed tonight.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 12:56pm
I laid the pex in the channel first and clamped it in place. Then marked the light locations with a sharpy. Took it back out and ran a 3/8 Wood spade bit through one side of the pipe and once the wire was run through the pipe I could pull it out of those holes with a hook and then soder the lights shrink wrap it and shove it back in. Secured with EMT 1/2 conduit straps bolted to the frame with #10 bolts and lock tight
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 12:58pm
I had been dreading the removal of the hose from the guides, but it only took about 30 seconds each with a Sawzall. I expected what I found underneath-not only surface rust but also serious pitting.








Looks like some folks purchase the trailer guide pads from the site. I like those, but are they as good as the Trident Flex hose? The overall diameter of the guides appear to be 1 5/8 - 1 11/16. The Trident hose comes in 1 3/4", 1 7/8", and 2". I think the 2" would be too loose, but thinking the 1 3/4 would be tough to get around the lower bend. Anyone tackled this before?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 1:07pm
Is the hose (protection) really needed on the horizontal part of the guide near where it attaches to the trailer? I have a '91 and the PO just used PVC pipe on the vertical. Mine does not have the top bend tho.

If you do go back with the hose, get one that will be nice and tight. Once you clean the metal tubes and paint them (another great place for POR-15) you can use lots of DISH SOAP to lube up the ID of the hose.

EDIT: thought of another way to get them on. Use compressed air. Get the hose started, then slip the air hose handle in at the btm, move the handle and the hose down as the air expands the hose. The further down you go the tuffer it gets. I use that method to attach lagging to conveyor rollers and pulleys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 1:11pm
Any "pad" that can't rotate will get shredded from the rub rail. Loose hard PVC is best because it will roll. However, the compound curves of these guides make that rather impossible. I've many times considered redesigning the poles to finish up straight, but they just don't look proper. So far flex PVC is the best, which is what CC used in the late 80s. Or, leave them off entirely!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 1:11pm
Flex PVC is a better solution than exhaust/cooling hose. That is what cc used in the late 80's. I forget the nominal size I bought- it'll be loose but will make the bend and can be capped at the top so you'll never notice. It comes in a few different colors, cc used white in the 80's but black might be more appropriate on a 70's trailer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 1:24pm
Arklie,
Unlike Joel, I go the non corrosive route with clamping the tubing to the inside of the trailer channel. I've used ether plastic (black UV resistant) or aluminum one hole tube straps. Joel's method with the dropouts works. I've done it two ways. Ether cut the hole like Joel or simply stop and start the tubing.

Tim, The OD of 1&1/4" pipe is 1&5/8". Yes on the capping of the tops. It will keep the water out as long as you don't try and get the tubing all the way down and around the bend. As mentioned, going that low is not needed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 1:31pm
No matter what, avoid these situations, especially the second.

black rubber = black smudges
bare pipe (no cap on top) = paint and gelcoat scratches
bare pipe (bottom curve) = chine gelcoat chips
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 1:46pm
Not all boat/trailer combinations will have chine/guide interference even at extreme angles (our bfn is not one of these cases)... I agree with the rest. I'd still put the hose/tubing around the bend, if possible, though!

Pete, I'm thinking I went with 1.5" PVC then (closer to 2" od) as you'd never get flex PVC over a bent pipe with tightly matching id/od... It's not THAT flexible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 3:40pm
On an Eagle trailer the stock setup is black PVC pipe (capped) over metal guide posts, I have the Nautique covers over the PVC which I will remove when launching otherwise the rub rail will really tear them up if contact is made. One advantage to a snug fitting PVC overlay is on a very steep launch they can be slid up to extend the height of protection.

Project looks great by the way and Watauga is a very nice lake, my uncle has a house at Lakeshore Resort.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2014 at 3:48pm
A sealed cap on straight, loose fitting thin walled PVC will also float up extending the guide. Of course a tall enough guide to begin with won't ever be a problem. CC was pretty generous with their guide heights.

For those of you with short guides that land below the rub rail, driver head covers make cheap caps!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:22am
Thanks, All, for the suggestions and advice.

I have been slowly working on the trailer while waiting on engine parts.

I have replaced all of the lights except the taillights with LEDs and run the new wiring harness in PEX. I hope to make all the electrical connections this evening if the rain lets up. I could not find any original style side marker lights so I went with some armored ones. The clearance lights were easily obtainable, though. The original u-bolts that held on the front nose-stop were in pretty rough shape so I replaced them with new axle u-bolts that were a little beefier


The coupler was bent up pretty badly so I replaced it with a heavier-duty version. I considered a Bulldog cast coupler, but opted out for this one instead. Attached with grade 8 bolts and new safety chain.


I Brainardized the mounting of the bunks by countersinking the stainless hex head bolts.


And took Joel's good advice on using PEX for wiring conduit. For the dropouts to the marker light and clearance lights I simply ground an oval in the PEX.


My bunk carpet arrived yesterday, so if the rain quits this evening I should be able to install the carpeting. I bought some stainless staples to do it with.


I bought a over 80 light to hang on the brackets Pete identified for me. The light was pretty flimsy so mounted it on a piece of heavy duty aluminum angle and secured everything with stainless bolts.


I replaced all of the bearings, races, seals, etc. in the factory hubs. In case it helps someone in the future, here are the part numbers:
Grease Seal: 171255TC
Outer Race: L44610
Outer Bearing: L44649
Inner Race: L68111
Inner Bearing: L68149
I also bought new fake buddy bearings and bras from Northern Tool and installed them as well.


Finally, I have been waiting on these spring and shackle bushings. I finally got them yesterday from Northeast Marine in Oxford MA. They were not easy to find, but really inexpensive at $1.05 each.


Question for the day. Can anyone tell me by looking at these pictures what model trailer this is? It doesn't really matter to me, but I would like to know. I have been looking for a lowboy with fiberglass tub, but it seams those are as rare as hens teeth?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SWANY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:42am
Looks great!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:59am
It is simply a #3. Seems like only few of then have the keel bunk like you do. I suggest rounding off the top, inside edge (purple line here) of the main bunks. Any pressure points during loading and unloading will wear through the carpet here very quickly. They usually wear through about 2/3 of the way up but you might as well do the entire length. Your carpet will last much longer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:13pm
Like HW said, that's a #3.

I like those axle bolts on the bow stop- what size are they?

The marker light housings are oddball and NLA but the lights that install into them are readily available... Don't throw the old housings away!

Trailer looks really good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2014 at 1:07pm
Will do, HW. Good idea.

TRBenj, I will keep the remnant of them. I belive they are a Truck-Lite product, as are the tail lights. Both were/are high quality products. As an example-the tail lights are gasketed and all fasteners are stainless including all the internal guts. One of the marker lights is actually almost perfect, although weathered. The other has about 1/2 of the housing cracked and missing although the actual lens and light is okay. For any unfamiliar with the originals- the lens must be twisted to remove it. I will keep them in hopes of finding some parts sometime in the future or passing them off to someone else.

Relative to the axle bolts I used on the bow stop. They are part #175668 from Etrailer. The part is a Redline product, the u-bolt 9/16" in diameter and 7 3/4" long and has an inner width of 2-1/2" and came with nuts. I also ordered part #115208GALV matching shackle-straps to go along with them. The u-bolts and included nuts were $8.00 each and the straps were $1.85 or so. So you are looking at $40 to upgrade them. I am pretty gentle when loading, but I have witnessed some folks slamming their Correct Crafts into the stop with a lot of force, never did understand that. I have also read recently of some folks braking hard to bring the boat up against the stop after loading. If their u-bolts are in as bad of a shape as mine were they may be in for a rude awakening some day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2014 at 9:45pm
Very nice!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2014 at 9:01pm
I have the trailer pretty much finished except for the protection on the guide poles (still haven't settled on the right covering just yet), and square u-bolts to hold the axle to the leaf springs. When I cleaned the rust off the originals I realized they were really beyond repair. I cleaned them up with a brass wire brush on a bench grinder and ran a die down them a few times, but they are shot. They are a size that is uncommon, just like everything else on one of these trailers. I finally found them at Croft Trailer Supply in Kansas City; they should be here early next week, hopefully.




Installed the bunk carpet and cut some new decals from the .EPS files downloaded from the CCF Website.



I spliced the coaming pads and trimmed them to the correct size, chamfered the back edge with a router, marked the mounting holes, and installed stainless T-Nuts before applying a couple coats of CPES. I think they are ready for the upholstery shop now.



The only other thing I got done was replacing the Airguide speedometer line from the rear of the boat to the instrument panel/dash. There wasn't anything nice about that job. I can only assume the tube was installed under the gunnel while at the factory before the top deck was installed on the hull. There was at least 12-15 zip-ties securing that thing. Had to use a stubby screwdriver to get the screws out and reinstalled. Glad that is over. I still need to run the electrical wires for the Electro Marine Speedo, but thinking about using miniature zip-ties to secure it to the Airguide tubing, not sure just yet/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2014 at 2:28pm
I was going to get the wheels sandblasted and powdercoated, but my powdercoater wanted $25 each just to sandblast them. I settled on new wheels from Northern Tool for $38 each, plus I used the $10 off coupon I had. So I came out better. As one member suggested, I will clean up the better of the old wheels and find a tire for it to use as a spare.

I settled on 2" black flexible PVC pipe for the guides. I found a 25' roll on Amazon for $45.00 or so and free prime shipping. They also had the 2" black caps for around $2.50 or so. Not sure I am going to glue them on permanent until I load it a time or two. The 2" size is a tad big, but I think it will allow the pipes to drain out easily and allow some movement when the boat contacts them. They are tight enough that they could never blow off, and the pipe feels like electrical Carflex or a similar product but much softer. I think it will work good. It is available in White, Black and Grey.







I spent more time and money on this project then I anticipated. This pretty much concludes the trailer project. I am thinking about fabricating a spare tire mount and a secure bow tie-down. I will think more about those things after I finish the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2014 at 2:57pm
Awesome. Keep up the good work. I have been to Watauga a few times, beautiful lake! I hope I can see this work personally one day.

A quick google of "spare tire mount" and this popped up.... $20. It is an option.

Clark

spare tire mount link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2014 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by Watauga Watauga wrote:


I spent more time and money on this project then I anticipated.



Hmmm, never had that feeling -- not!

Great idea on the black flex for the guide poles. That should look very nice.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2014 at 6:14pm
The PVC on the guide ons looks great.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rebel skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2014 at 6:42pm
No doubt! I hope the wife does not get me the Nautique guide post pads from this site's store for Christmas like I asked for. I want to to Arklie's route.

Arklie, do you think they will rotate when loading the boat?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-18-2014 at 7:48pm
Thanks, All.
Richard, They will not rotate because of the 90* bend on the lower section. They will spin maybe 15 or 20 degrees with some difficulty, and then return to their original position. If your trailer is a newer one without the 90* bends they may spin. Just measure your guides before you order. Mine were around 1 5/8 - 1 11/16 or so.

I tried to get it local and checked with the large plumbing contractor suppliers, but no one had it around here. I looked around on the web and found out pretty quickly that there are 2 major suppliers of flexible PVC that sell over the internet. One of the suppliers sells some odd sizes, e.g., 1 3/4 and 1 7/8. I really wanted the 1 7/8 size but it would have been almost double in cost, plus a lot of shipping on top of that. Then I checked Amazon and was surprised they had the 2", and that is was available for Prime Shipping. I made a decision to order the 2" and if they were too loose I was going to make some bushings, but there were not needed.

This stuff is pretty soft, even in the cold weather we are seeing today. I would do it again in a minute, and I am pretty picky. As far as cutting it - I used one of those cheap PVC pinch cutters that goes up to 2" and it went through it like butter. A sharp pocket knife or hacksaw would easily work as well.

Here is my final trailer picture showing my inexpensive NT rims.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2014 at 12:59am
Looks great! What disasters have you aided?
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Toertel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:08am
great work! are you based in GA? if so, ya need to come to a reunion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2014 at 6:47am
A local ski bud of mine has had the flexable PVC on his guide ons for years and they have held up fabulously. The only draw back is that he has white on his black trailer but over the years they have gotton pretty dingy looking from water stains and Father Time. Good call on going with the black. Nice restore on the trailer including the wheels!
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2014 at 8:24am
The wheels aren't my taste but the PVC looks good. Tim, flex PVC (white) was what correct craft put over the guides in the late 80's... I know our '88 had it. You can still put the nautique guide pads over them, but they're more of a style choice than functional.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-19-2014 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Looks great! What disasters have you aided?


Chris, I have coordinated responses to every major disaster in North America over the last 10 years; currently active at 8 locations in 6 states in the US.
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