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proper prop installation

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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 8:02am
ah yes, lapping is also recommended, you want at least 80% contact on the surfaces and with blueing the prop is the method to determine the contact, once the contact is achieved then you want to advance the prop onto the shaft, really i was thinking about this and i dont see any reason why you could do the die procedure, lap it and then put the prop in the oven at 400 degrees and then advance your prop quickly. these props do spin engine speed or a tad less so getting it up on the shaft seated is important...thats me though.
but never skip the fitting procedure which includes die and lapping it in, if i had the shaft out, which most of the time i did, I would dangerously put the shaft in the lathe and spin it slowly to lap the prop in
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 8:27am
Pete, my thinking was that if they were roughly equal in effectiveness then it would give people another option if they could only do one and already had a propane torch.   I agree its not a good idea to break out the acetalyne torch and heat your new prop until its almost molten so you can push it all the way to the strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 9:45am
Don,
No problem with thinking of other ways to seat a prop but I'd stay with the lapping. Yes, I'd hate to see someone getting the prop too hot (heat and a slow cool anneals brass alloys). As Eric mentioned the "sweating" is the indicator of how hot you're getting the prop. A first timer may not catch on.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gmoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 1:02pm
Great thread. We have a brand new prop hanging on the wall, just in case. It will get lapped in for sure.

GMoney
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 1:11pm
i always forget about the dummy factor lol, I really can picture now someone really heating up the prop, thats the reason i suggested 350 or 400 in the oven.
really the combination of the 3, die lap and sweat, i would concur is probably the correct way to install a prop, in reality though i dont know how important it would be to sweat the prop at this point, obviously if you want it up on the taper this would be the way to do it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrwillya Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 2:13pm
Took the Ski Supreme out this weekend with the new ACME 543 and WOW what a difference! I didn't notice it until I was pulled behind it on skis. It almost pulled the rope out of my hand! I then had someone else drive and really felt the faster hole shot. I guess while I drove it it was tougher to notice the difference. Sounds odd, I know!

Thanks for your prop help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 2:56pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:


really the combination of the 3, die lap and sweat, i would concur is probably the correct way to install a prop, in reality though i dont know how important it would be to sweat the prop at this point, obviously if you want it up on the taper this would be the way to do it

Eric,
With the lap and sweat, you'll need one of these to get it off!!



I'd have to borrow our 55 ton from work!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2013 at 3:08pm
New twist on an old subject:

Does a prop need to be re-lapped when it goes on a different boat?

I would think not, but maybe there could be a slight difference in taper.

Pete - What do you think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2013 at 6:51pm
Chris,
I say yes since the whole idea is to precisely match the two tapers. Yes, machining is pretty accurate but I still suggest lapping. It doesn't take much for the tapers to be off .0005" over the length of the taper.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2013 at 8:18pm
Well, it looks some props are changing hands,.   I am getting a used one myself.

I'll do the lap just to be safe.

Hopefully this thread will help others know about the technique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2013 at 10:42pm
Wow!! Never knew that mounting a prop could be so complicated. My '66 S-N came with a bronze prop. At the time, I bought a spare since my boat (and my roommates boat) were to be used by various ski clubs in Florida for their tournaments. I have interchanged the two props at least a dozen times over the past 48 years and in all that time, I have never "blued" the shaft or for that matter, even cleaned it. Am I doing something wrong or am I just lucky .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2013 at 10:43pm
Wow!! Never knew that mounting a prop could be so complicated. My '66 S-N came with a bronze prop. At the time, I bought a spare since my boat (and my roommates boat) were to be used by various ski clubs in Florida for their tournaments. I have interchanged the two props at least a dozen times over the past 48 years and in all that time, I have never "blued" the shaft or for that matter, even cleaned it. Am I doing something wrong or am I just lucky .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2013 at 7:19am
Originally posted by 4mor 4mor wrote:

I have never "blued" the shaft or for that matter, even cleaned it. Am I doing something wrong or am I just lucky .

Blueing is an option. It's just an indicator of high and low spots. It's the lapping that is key to matching the taper. Yes, many have gotten away without lapping. Most have been lucky but there are others who have lost props.


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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2013 at 10:03am
Tell me, lost the cstle nut and the prop remain on its place!
Good i followed this instructions
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2013 at 6:50pm
Fitted my new 1442 the other day. Checked it with blue compound almost perfect contact on taper. Still gave it a quick lap with the cutting compound.

ACME are now putting a note in with their props to check the taper fit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 5:13pm
Guys, if I can't find Prussian blue what else could I use? I know they can get it for me but is there another product I could use? Thanks, Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 6:15pm
Tony, I have found my own blood to be a suitable substitute...
It has gotten a little thinner after 30 years in S Florida and seems to flow nicely over machined surfaces...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 6:24pm
Been there. I went to Napa and I'll get the Prussian tomorrow. I thought I would have to wait. Thanks, Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 6:46pm
Tony - The grinding compound leaves a satin finish. I have not used the blue. I think the bogey is 90% cleanup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 5:11pm
Old thread I know, but couldnt see any mention of checking for flat spots on the prop taper?
It's taken me a considerable amount of lapping and am currently at ~95% contact with the prop. The shaft taper is spot on..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 5:15pm
95%? Bolt it up and splash the damn thing already!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IAughtNaut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 5:16pm
You're probably good...there's a lot of guys who have never lapped a prop and never have any problems. You hit the toilet 95% of the time and your toes are going to stay pretty dry.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 5:29pm


Thanks fellas its getting there slowly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 5:37pm
Shaft looks good

flat spot on prop
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2014 at 6:57pm
Originally posted by IAughtNaut IAughtNaut wrote:

You're probably good...there's a lot of guys who have never lapped a prop and never have any problems. You hit the toilet 95% of the time and your toes are going to stay pretty dry.

Yes, there are plenty of people who have never lapped a prop but if you read this thread thoroughly you will understand that was with the old props and not the CNC machined props. Props used to be reamed but the CNC props are not. Yes, CNC is accurate but not to the extent of the greatest fit. Why do you think Morris tapers are ground? Why do you think Acme even recommends lapping.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2014 at 9:10am
Graham - My prop's taper (after lapping) looked exactly like what you ended up with. I got to the point of diminishing returns & just went with it. It hasn't come loose, been 5+ years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2014 at 12:11pm
That's good to know, thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2014 at 12:31pm
Both Acmes I have lapped had a run up the side. The line was uniform and they both stay on the taper just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCH20SKIER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2014 at 7:19am
Suggestion - if your taking the time to lap the shaft above spend the extra bucks and get the correct sized wrench and sell the adjustable to those working on mastercrafts. Got to say I was very surprised to see such a tool in Pete's hand
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