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proper prop installation

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TX Foilhead View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2009 at 12:57am
I also had a problem finding the Prussian Blue, I guess nobody sets up gears properly anymore. I tried 3 NAPA's in a 30 mile radius of home. I ended up using a wide sharpie and some break cleaning fluid. I got the recipe off of a machinists forum, and then added a squirt of penetrating oil to keep it from drying out so fast. I just filled the cap of the sharpie about half and half with each and dipped the pen in it. After talking with some people who use the real stuff regularly I found out that Prussian Blue is basically a thin non-drying ink, so that's what I tried to make.

Not a perfect solution, but it saved me 3 hours of driving, and maybe it will help someone else out.

OK flame away, I'm getting used to it.

Don
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Carl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-23-2009 at 1:12am
Also found nobody had the Prussian blue in stock.

Graingers had "Hi-spot blue" which seems to be the same thing. I'll be using it in a week or two and will report back.

About $6 per tube.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2009 at 12:07pm
I will try to get pics later, but my nut tops on the key no the prop, wich fits tight.
But I sense I did not do something right when I installed it (like 100hs ago)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2009 at 3:41pm
Luciano,
If the prop nut is bottoming out on the key and the key is as far forward as possible then the key needs to be shortened. Be carefull that the prop is sitting on the shaft taper and not on the key. Dry fit the prop without the key and mark it's forward position with the tape on the shaft to make sure.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lonestar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2009 at 3:03pm
Ok, so last fall when I removed my prop to have it serviced I was able to bump my hand on the back of it and pop it off. Im guessing thats a problem but what should I be looking for ? I actuallly just put the refinished prop on ten min ago but I havent tightend it down yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2009 at 3:23pm
Originally posted by lonestar lonestar wrote:

Ok, so last fall when I removed my prop to have it serviced I was able to bump my hand on the back of it and pop it off. Im guessing thats a problem but what should I be looking for ? I actuallly just put the refinished prop on ten min ago but I havent tightend it down yet.


The high spot blue tells you the high and low spots of the taper in the middle back or front. If you were able to remove the prop by hand then ether the taper needs lapping or the prop wasn't installed properly. The most common problem on a improper install is the prop bottoming on the top of the key and not the taper. Use the dry fit and masking tape trick as mentioned.

Did you by chance have the prop serviced last fall due to vibration? You really should lap on this prop as your taper may now be bad due to running a loose prop. Did the prop shop check the taper?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lonestar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2009 at 9:34pm
I realy dont know if they would have done anything with the taper. I just saw some dings in the prop and thought it a good idea to get it serviced and get a fresh start to the season. I took over looking after this boat last summer after it had been unused for several years. Im not an expert but I would say the maint program was lacking at best. If I were to guess the prop has not been off since new and its an 1988. One thing I did notice is there is a very small amount of play in the drive shaft, I dont know if that would mean anything ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote martin 74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2009 at 4:35pm
I used this excellent post by Pete from last spring to properly install my prop after it had been repaired by Delta. You probably won't be able to find the blue High Point but per Pete it's optional, I didn't need it. My key moved easily in the keyway and I was able to push it back with the cotter pin so the prop wouldn't tighten on it. I torqued my prop to 30 lbs per Acme. I tightened it as I could holding the prop with my hands, in my case, be sure to press it on well, it shouldn't move or jiggle at all on the shaft. To remove my prop I ordered an Acme harmonic prop removal tool ($30) and stainless cotter pin from Delta. I got it in two days and used the CCF discount. The prop took a week to fix and one week round trip with UPS. (two weeks total) I was a little worried about using the harmonic prop removal tool but it worked great. Be sure not to tighten it all the way against the prop and it comes off with a few sharp wraps. Hope this helps someone now that it's peek prop repair time. Here are the before and after repair pics of my prop.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2009 at 5:33pm
Not seeing any pics Rich...
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martin 74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote martin 74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-07-2009 at 6:17pm
Sorry, here they are.

Rich



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slob02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2009 at 12:14am
I have had 3 nautiques and have had friends with many and I have never seen one stay tight on the taper after hitting reverse. Not saying it shouldn't though. If you keep it on a trailer, the last thing you do is accelerate forward to get it on the trailer (tight on the shaft) . If you put it on a boat lift, the last thing you do is hit reverse (pulling away from the shaft). I just don't know if it is something I should worry about or not. I too would think it should be tight on the shaft........but of my 93,95, and 97....and a friends 92, 97, and 98...none have stayed tight after hitting reverse??????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2009 at 1:05am
Originally posted by slob02 slob02 wrote:

I too would think it should be tight on the shaft........but of my 93,95, and 97....and a friends 92, 97, and 98...none have stayed tight after hitting reverse??????


Give the lapping and install procedure a try. Your friends should too. I guarantee if done correctly you will not have a loose prop! Your tapper is off or your key isn't in the proper position not allowing the prop to seat on the taper. Keep in mind that a taper is the only thing that holds a drill chuck in a drill press spindle!! Also, take note of Eric's comment that many trans components are held together with tapers only. No nuts!!! Think about why a puller is needed to get a prop off!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2009 at 11:03am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by slob02 slob02 wrote:

I too would think it should be tight on the shaft........but of my 93,95, and 97....and a friends 92, 97, and 98...none have stayed tight after hitting reverse??????


Give the lapping and install procedure a try. Your friends should too. I guarantee if done correctly you will not have a loose prop!


Pete's right. If you follow this procedure the only thing that will be loose is the cotter pin and it shouldn't be very loose(slight pivot). I think the castle nut or nylock is a formality when the taper is right.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slob02 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2009 at 12:11pm
I will give it a try and let you guys know how it goes! I never really felt 100% about it before, but could never understand why so many are loose after hitting reverse. I have lapped primary clutches on snowmobiles to get that good clean fit and will give it a try.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2009 at 12:15pm
Welcome aboard!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2010 at 2:03pm
So I see martin74 used the harmonic prop puller. Any thoughts on these?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drtybrdy9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2011 at 3:08pm
Do the newer boats have the same taper that holds the prop on? I recently had a new prop put on the boat by the dealer, who is losing my confidence by the second, and have noticed some vibrations. After seeing this I think that might be the reason.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2011 at 3:20pm
yes, unless you have a splined shaft end like some MC´s..not likely though...hahaha
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrwillya Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 1:50pm
Old topic, I know, but I have a question on this process.

I took off my nut and the prop fell right off, no puller no hammer. From what it looks like here, it should have been tough to remove due to good surface contact of prop on shaft (heh).

I'll definitely be doing the Prussian Blue and compound to ensure it's a perfect fit.

I'm replacing my stock 13x13 with an Acme 543.

Should I be concerned about my key being worn down? Or anything else for that matter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 2:08pm
Get a new key, they're cheap. If the prop is on correctly it shouldn't be easy to get it off the taper, but if you hit or even tapped something with it that may have knoced it loose. The same idea behind using the prop ringer instead of a puller, the right vibration will shake it just enough to make it loose.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrwillya Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 2:12pm
Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

Get a new key, they're cheap. If the prop is on correctly it shouldn't be easy to get it off the taper, but if you hit or even tapped something with it that may have knoced it loose. The same idea behind using the prop ringer instead of a puller, the right vibration will shake it just enough to make it loose.


Can you think of anywhere local I can find that? I'm looking to get on the water this weekend. If I can't find a local one, would it be fine to run with my old one?

They are easy to find online!

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by mrwillya mrwillya wrote:

Old topic, I know, but I have a question on this process.

I took off my nut and the prop fell right off, no puller no hammer. From what it looks like here, it should have been tough to remove due to good surface contact of prop on shaft (heh).

I'll definitely be doing the Prussian Blue and compound to ensure it's a perfect fit.

I'm replacing my stock 13x13 with an Acme 543.

Should I be concerned about my key being worn down? Or anything else for that matter.


I'm sure you can reuse the old key if it's not damaged and time is a factor.

543? This is a Left hand rotation prop you know, right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrwillya Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 2:31pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

I'm sure you can reuse the old key if it's not damaged and time is a factor.

543? This is a Left hand rotation prop you know, right?


Ha, yep, I'm a non-CC person right now. I just find this site has the most knowledgeable people concerning these type of boats. I'm the proud owner of a 1985 Ski Supreme which is LH rotation.

Thanks for your help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by mrwillya mrwillya wrote:

Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

Get a new key, they're cheap. If the prop is on correctly it shouldn't be easy to get it off the taper, but if you hit or even tapped something with it that may have knoced it loose. The same idea behind using the prop ringer instead of a puller, the right vibration will shake it just enough to make it loose.


Can you think of anywhere local I can find that? I'm looking to get on the water this weekend. If I can't find a local one, would it be fine to run with my old one?

They are easy to find online!

Thanks


Since I've never been to Iowa, not really familiar with what's local. Just a wild guess, but someone who sells farm implements ought to have one or a machine shop that works on those sort of things. (Think John Deere, not Tractor Supply).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 3:23pm
Originally posted by mrwillya mrwillya wrote:


Can you think of anywhere local I can find that? If I can't find a local one, would it be fine to run with my old one?
Thanks

A well stocked hardware or even a home improvement should have 1/4" x 1/4" brass stock. You may need to get a couple feet though. If not brass, go with stainless. Cut a piece and fit it with a file.

You may still be able to use your old key. Turn it 90 degrees and see how it fits the keyway in the shaft and the prop.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 6:14pm
My prop on the 85' also fell right off. It wasn't seated at all. The new Acme was lapped in correctly though.

Also...lets see some pics of that Ski Supreme.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrwillya Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2012 at 6:24pm
Originally posted by C-Bass C-Bass wrote:

My prop on the 85' also fell right off. It wasn't seated at all. The new Acme was lapped in correctly though.

Also...lets see some pics of that Ski Supreme.


I have a couple pics in this thread. I won't post them here to refrain from clogging up this post!

Great boat, I've done a ton of improvements. Come to think of it, I should update that thread with a few of the changes I've made since getting it.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22926&PN=1&title=ski-supreme-knowledge-base
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2012 at 10:22am
pretty much, we will sweat the props on larger boats, Ive never practiced this in the past but it does seem logical, after its as tight as we can get the prop on with a hammer wrench, we will sweat the prop and now i gather what sweating the prop means, we slowly glaze starting at the blades to heat the prop and then to the hub, the bronze will actually start to sweat as its heated...when i say heat it, i mean flash heat not concentrated, at this point the nut will actually go another 1/2 to 3/4 turn...then it takes a puller to get the prop off.
I did notice on some other boats in the yard that were not sweated and when removing the inner nut against the prop they would be loose because the prop would advance from thrust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 1:28am
Correct me if I'm wrong Eric, by sweating the prop you are makink it expand to push it farther up the taper.   If that's what's happening is it so important to lap it to the shaft?    My thinking here is the leaping make the surface contact perfect, but that doesn't get it farther up the taper, sweating it will but is that a stronger connection in the end. Obviously it's best to do both, but which one is getting you more bang for the buck?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2012 at 8:58am
Don,
The larger the prop is, the harder it is to psychically lap a prop. Imagine trying to handle a prop 3' in diameter or larger. Also, these are slow RPM props. They what them to stay on and within reason don't care about some balance/vibration issues. I'd sure stick with the lapping for a precise fit. You sure wouldn't want to take a CNC prop with all it's precision and distort it by a misfit taper. Keep in mine that I believe it was Acme that came out with the lapping recommendation with the advent of the CNC prop.


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