Prop puller

Pete as usual a fine piece of fabrication.
But I would not expect anything less from you.............Boat dr

Pete, that's pretty slick, but I don't see any servos or hydrolic rams?!!? I hope you're not going to tell us that a wrench is needed?!!?   

Man...not even 1 push button on that thing.

I'll take one please!

Pete, let's start a group buy on this fine piece of equipment!

Peter

Nice Job, something else I need to make on my Myford is it resting on what we call Tulipwood ( American Poplar)

Roger.

Rodger, Good call on the Poplar! To make more room in my dinning room, I ripped out a bay window seat, reframed the floor out to into the window bay and built a new wall under the window. The Poplar is for the new window sill. Painted of coarse! Cheap, machines nice and paints well.

When I was taking the picture, it crossed my mind and I wondered if you or Greg would pick up on the wood!!!!

Riley wrote: Pete, is that the only one you use, or is it for just the problem jobs?

Bruce, It's the only one I use. I really never liked the "C" clamp type. Way back when I was working summers at the marina I always had problems with the shops "C" clamp type. I think someone used a impact wrench on it at one time! The only nice thing about them is they are quick to put on.

8122pbrainard wrote: When I was taking the picture, it crossed my mind and I wondered if you or Greg would pick up on the wood!!!!

I saw it Pete and am very familiar with it, but I was too busy giving you a ration! LOL Poplar was the paint grade minimum in my dad's old shop, red oak was the base for stain.

Tulipwood looks a little different in my shop...Brazilian Tulipwood

BuffaloBFN wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: When I was taking the picture, it crossed my mind and I wondered if you or Greg would pick up on the wood!!!! I saw it Pete and am very familiar with it, but I was too busy giving you a ration! LOL Poplar was the paint grade minimum in my dad's old shop, red oak was the base for stain. Tulipwood looks a little different in my shop...Brazilian Tulipwood

Poplar has become popular for interior trim in Maine during the past 10 years. I went to college for Forestry in the 70's and it was a useless tree back then.

Kristoff, I'll get you some basic dimensions.

Bruce, In the midwest, the Poplar has always been used for paper/pulp. I think it still is for the high end paper.

eric lavine wrote: I knew we thought alike, i got pricing on making 10 of them and it wasnt to bad with someone else making them. if there was more interest i would pursue the issue remeber pete, im one ahead of you cause mine is short enough to remove the coupling ha ha ha ha   lol   nice job though

Erice if you can get 10 of them made put my name on one please.

My neighbor used to make those....

I probably will have plate laser cut to size making it economical and then have the machinist cnc them, I was thinking 80 to 100 apiece, i will make them so they can easily pull the coupling also, its hard trying to find the time to do this stuff, Im setting up a webstore which is been in process for months and trying to cut deals with suppliers for good pricing, the store is done and now i need to start loading info, my next quest will be affordable prop shafts and couplings

behindpropeller wrote: Eric- Typically you can only go to 1/4" with laser. Waterjet is your next best bet. Waterjet is a bit more expensive though. When my neighbor was making these they bought 3" stock and sliced them and then machined them. Tim

Tim, That really isn't true regarding the thickness on a laser. It all depends on the wattage. We have 3 lasers in our short run fab division and the big one will do 3/8" stainless and 7/16" mild steel. For up to 3/4" our plasma is the way to go. Waterjet is expensive (high maintenance) and is usually used for more exotic materials.

The laser is the way to go because of the nice clean cut. The plate's OD can then just be cleaned up abrasively with a belt sander and the holes drilled. No machining of the faces needed. For the "C" shaped back plates I used standard heavy plain steel fender washers. They too could be fixtured and the C's cut out on the laser.

Fender washer from McMaster: Part # 91117A252
1.063" ID
3.5" OD
.234 min. thickness
.266" max thickness
$2.89 each

I wish I had access to the equipment!!

Kristof wrote: Pete, I have a friend who is a teacher at a technical high school, so it would make a good project for his students... Could you send me the specs on your prop puller? Thanks, Kristof

Kristof, Here's some more details on the puller:
Rough OD (ether end plate) - 3" to 3.5"
Bolt hole centers - 2.25"
End plate 3/8" thick
I used 3/8" fine thread bolts and some more dimensions are in my other post on the "C" washers I used.
This and a picture is all he should need to make one.
Sorry I didn't convert to metric this time!!

possibly today, my machinist is suppose to stop by and make some drawings, alot of good ideas posted
it is a go Nutty, its a slow process