Engine Rebuild
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47157
Printed Date: May-20-2024 at 1:41am
Topic: Engine Rebuild
Posted By: jterr
Subject: Engine Rebuild
Date Posted: January-27-2019 at 12:58pm
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83 351 out of boat A few questions. 1. Where is good place for engine parts? 2. Can engine be run out of boat , sitting on blocks? I read I should do compression check on warm engine. 3. What am I looking for in compression? |
Replies:
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: January-27-2019 at 3:50pm
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Parts - That would depend on exactly how much of the job you're doing yourself. If you are having basic machining only and you are assembling everything yourself with all your own internal parts you'd likely be looking at different suppliers than if you had a machine shop do a short or long block for you and you just have to reassemble the rest. Yes, you can run the engine on blocks, but it can be quite a headache - lots of things to have in place before you can fire it up. But if all you're needing is a compression test I'm thinking that doesn't necessarily need to be done with a warm engine, especially if you are just rebuilding anyway. My past research indicated that good compression for the 351 is going to range from 120-165 psi depending on model and compression ratio. I think I've read a good average for the standard (non-HO) is between 120 and 135 psi but perhaps someone else has the official numbers. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: January-27-2019 at 5:08pm
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For parts you ask? Well, waaaaaaay too much of my hard-earned ca$h goes to www.SummitRacing.com JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: January-27-2019 at 10:00pm
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Yes, there's always summit for the generic Ford parts. For more marine or Correct Craft specific - aside from the ever popular skidim or NautiqueParts - you could try some of these: http://www.marineparts.com/" rel="nofollow - marineparts http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/" rel="nofollow - discountmarine https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/" rel="nofollow - ebasicpower https://www.cpperformance.com/" rel="nofollow - cpperformance I;ve bought items from each of them and a few others. All are reputable and for the most part competitively priced. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-27-2019 at 10:39pm
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Back in a post from August, you tested cold and got about 112 across the board. Is it safe to assume this was with all plugs out, throttle and choke open and a well charged battery. It would probably be higher warm, but not a whole big bunch. Some people have no issues with doing a cold test You have consistency from cylinder to cylinder, that's a good thing. Gauge accuracy will come into play too. Your gauge may read 112 and another may read 125 just for example And another may read low in comparison. Why don't you test your good running 79 engine cold just to give you something to compare numbers to? The engines are basically the same, had same compression ratio around 8.3 to 1 from the factory. That comparison will give you a good idea of how things are To me your 112 cold is not great, not terrible but pretty decent. It wouldn't cause any big running issues |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 7:57pm
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Update: Rechecked Compression and got 125-130 on all. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 8:01pm
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I'll try here ,but may repost. I'm assuming the 83 engines had a 4160 Holley. 1st question-Where to find rebuild kit, my parts guy told me good luck with that...... 2nd question- Should I do a rebuild or replace. 3rd question- What would I replace with? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 8:49pm
John, Where have you been shopping? Autozone?  I just googled rebuild kits for 4160's and got 84,200 results!! You defiantly need a new parts guy. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
jterr wrote:Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 8:54pm
| Agree but I think he was "cornfused" as I asked for a marine kit.... When he has the parts I get a Hellava discount. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 9:05pm
I don't feel he was confused but rather ignorant on carbs. Did he even ask you for the list # that's stamped on the horn of the carb? If he didn't, then he certainly isn't confused. The list # pretty much determines the kit used. I'm sure Ken will be along and can fill in the blanks that I'm sure I've missed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 9:09pm
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OK, I'll look at the list # tomorrow as it is storming here. Is it a easy rebuild as last carb. I did was a 1 barrel on my tractor |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 9:19pm
If you can post what the list number is on the air horn of the carb it should be pretty easy to get a Holley kit number that your parts guy could get for you. See the picture for the list number location I was gonna pick on Pete's spelling of definitely but thought I'd let it slide 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 9:25pm
For the cost of a kit it's worth giving it a shot as compared to paying somebody else or getting another carburetor.. It's a little more complicated than a 1 barrel on a tractor but not bad. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 9:40pm
We get lazy with spell check don't we!  If the spelling doesn't come up wrong, most like myself think everything is definitely correct! Ken, What's going on with you today since you held off picking on me? Are you worn out from kicking your dog too much? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 10:03pm
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Just resting up Pete I spent the day building dipsticks |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 10:09pm
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Wow, find a new parts guy. Helluva discount up front doesn’t mean much if you have to do it twice. A compression check “should” be done warm but I’d be more concerned with all 8 cylinders being within 10% of each other rather cold vs. warm. FWIW I did a compression check last week on my Honda outboard, 120 cold, 160 hot. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-02-2019 at 10:18pm
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So back to your compression check from today 125 to 130 on all 8. There's nuthin' to be concerned about with those numbers just to put it in plain, easily understandable English |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-03-2019 at 8:39am
So John, were did you find this "parts guy"? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-03-2019 at 11:14am
Here is the only thing I found ..
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-03-2019 at 11:59am
| 75009-1 or whatever the last digit is is all you need. That's the list number. Have your parts guy order a kit for that. If you don't have any luck post back here. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-03-2019 at 12:01pm
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Found it from Holley.com, Thanks JT |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 11:31am
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I know this will sound stupid, but as I said know enough about engines to get myself in trouble. Was removing parts off engine and found 2 water pumps-1 looks normal the other is down bottom left if looking at motor...... Question should I replace or just try and clean them up. The one on top looks pretty rusty on the inside. I haven't gotten to the bottom one yet? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 12:19pm
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The upper one is the circulating pump which gets fed by the raw water pump that you haven't got to yet. If you took the upper one apart enough to see the impeller inside of it, it will definitely be rusty. Not unusual The impeller on an original pump on a PCM 351 is made of cast iron not anything more exotic like stainless steel.or bronze like some people think Here's a picture of one from the mid 80's next to a new automotive one with a stamped steel impeller If it spins smoothly and doesn't leak it probably doesn't need to be replaced The marine backing plate is stainless steel and the automotive one is regular old steel that rusts  |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 12:24pm
| Is it a regular type waterpump you buy for auto's? |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 2:17pm
Here is what my 2 look like. 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 3:12pm
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I'd reuse the circ pump if it spins smoothly and there's no sign of seal leakage. I'd reuse the raw water pump with a new impeller at a minimum or you can find a overhaul kit with everything needed to rebuild it if you want to do that. There are threads on here about rebuilds. Everything except a hydraulic press and some tools that is
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 8:41pm
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I think I will clean up and replace the impeller on the raw water pump as there is no slop in the bearings, for now. Unless I can't clean up the pulley, which shows some rust. I looked for some rebuild threads , no luck. I probably not entering it right |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 9:41pm
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Here's a link with quite a bit of info http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43144&title=g20-reduced-flow-under-load" rel="nofollow - link and another http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46865&title=sherwood-pump-help" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 10:46pm
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The brass wear plate on the RWP can be flipped over to get a fresh running surface. Someone may have done this already tho . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 10:52pm
Will check and see if I can tell. Thanks |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-03-2020 at 10:07pm
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Update: After putting engine back in the 83 everything hooked and running. Carb. has been rebuilt but I noticed at idle there was fuel dripping in the 2 back throats. I don't think that is normal, could something be stuck from sitting so long??? 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 8:33am
I'd start by taking the back bowl off and looking for junk in the needle and seat assembly and checking float level. Or, from the backyard hacker's handbook.............with the engine running, whack the bowl area near the needle and seat assembly a few times with the handle of a screwdriver and sometimes that works to dislodge a piece of junk or unstick a sticking float
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 2:11pm
I guess there is no way to drain gas out of that bowl 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 2:34pm
Oh yes there is Use a small catch container and pull one of the bottom attaching screws out to catch most of what's in there.
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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 3:55pm
I just happen to have a current picture. I just might be the only one summerizing my boat but I'm done for the season...... You can use just about any container if you cut it down,I was partial to something cool.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 6:23pm
Don't use styrofoam... I have a little plastic cup with a built in protrusion that is perfectly shaped to capture the gas out of one of those draining screws... I am sure I got it at summit or someplace like that. I am also sure that I have never once had it handy when I was removing a float bowl full of fuel.... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 8:39pm
Now that’s funny 
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: May-04-2020 at 9:30pm
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I rebuilt a couple engines in the last couple months, for the internal parts needed I purchased at Summit and Rock Auto. I know parts and they offered parts at prices my local shops could not match. Sorry to say but true. Be careful with internet searches when buying internal parts. There are a lot of low priced un proven parts for sale out there. I saw them on Amazon and Ebay. I will share a safe list of internal engine parts and brands you can trust below. Pistons : Mahle, Sealed Power or Silvolite are good Rings: Hastings, Sealed Power or Mahle Bearings I like Clevite or Federal Mogul, other brands like ACL, King or Clemex are all second tier products Gaskets: I try to stick with Fel Pro but Victor/Mahle also have great product. Don't go cheap on gaskets, leaks are very hard to fix later. TIming: Cloyes is #1, they also box product for Sealed Power, Melling and others but the brand you want is Cloyes. Oil Pumps Melling is first choice, if you buy a Sealed Power pump Melling is in the box. Freeze Plugs Choose Brass, they don't rust out, Pioneer is a good source Sealed Power offers complete kits which use the parts listed above in the sealed power brand name. The list above assumes you are building a factory stock or close to stock engine. If you want 500 HP you may need to upgrade to other brands. ------------- |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-05-2020 at 5:34pm
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Got another problem with electric. Had a short on one of my connections and thought I fixed; now the Tach just pegs all the way to right. Any suggestions on what to check??? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2020 at 6:10pm
John, Does it peg with the engine running all the time or when you turn on the ignition key to run? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-05-2020 at 9:30pm
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Soon as I turn on key. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2020 at 9:42pm
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John, I think you have some wires mixed up. Check that the gray sender wire is only connected to the negative coil terminal and that it's not shunted with any other wire. or terminal. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-05-2020 at 10:04pm
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Pretty sure that is how it is connected ,but will check tomorrow Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2020 at 10:10pm
AND
Get the VOM out and check after disconnecting one end of the gray wire. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-06-2020 at 4:29pm
Found the problem-wire colors are faded out. I think connected correct now.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-06-2020 at 4:46pm
Rather than "thinking", I'd again suggest:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-06-2020 at 9:34pm
Found several bad connections in harness. Fix tomorrow 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-07-2020 at 4:02pm
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Well after a couple hours rechecking and redoing connections most everything is working-except the lighted switches They have been working all the time till today??? oh well back to rechecking 
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-07-2020 at 9:41pm
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Bad fuse at the key switch, replaced with a 32v ( all I had) lights work. Back to Tach- still pegs to right. Thought I would just take off wires at coil, still pegs when turn key on What to check now? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2020 at 9:54pm
John, did you get the VOM out and check that gray wire. Also, disconnect the gray wire at the tach an check it for voltage when you turn the key on. Report back what you get BTW, voltage ratings on fuses are the MAX rated volts. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-07-2020 at 10:57pm
I checked for continuity. Electrical really keeps me confused
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 2:29pm
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Alrighty then-here are the results Disconnected wire from Tach got a reading of 11.01 volts with key in on position. Tach is still pegging even with that wire disconnected so I must have something wrong somewhere  Back to the boat |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 4:09pm
More cornfused now. See green notes on wiring diagram Also while checking ground when I touched the blue light wires on gauges to black ground wire they show connected
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 4:29pm
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John, The "G" terminal on the tach should be ground. The light blue and black wires should not be connected. The light blue is the positive feed for the instrument lighting and the black is the ground for the same. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 6:10pm
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[QUOTE=8122pbrainard] John, The "G" terminal on the tach should be ground. **Check. There is 1 black wire and 2(connected together) black wires on the same G post. I took the 2 off and they don't have continuity to the other ground wires The light blue and black wires should not be connected. The light blue is the positive feed for the instrument lighting and the black is the ground for the same. **Check. They aren't connected anywhere I can find, but when I check the continuity they are together somehow. I guess I will take off all the blue light wires I see if I can see a difference./QUOTE] How about that red wire?? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 6:20pm
John, What are you using to check continuity between the light blue and black? If not resistance with a VOM, then you are getting continuity through the instrument light bulbs. That red wire is the main positive feed to the dash. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 6:22pm
Since all the grounds are daisy chained, I suspect when you took the wires off, you broke the chain. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 7:28pm
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I was using the meter sound to check Don’t know how to check residence. Also the purple ignition wire is doing the same with the ground. I’m gonna stop for the day as I really not close to understanding bout brain dead Have to regroup tomorrow |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 8:41pm
John, Do you still have the instructions that came with the meter? If so, get them out and do some reading. On many VOM's, that sound setting is for checking diodes. Check that. The purple ignition wire also has a path to ground. Via the coil and the electric choke so, you will get the audible there too. As mentioned, get those instructions out and do some reading while you're regrouping. . ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 9:39pm
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Just a note I don't think those lights in the gauges work as I have not seen anything light up. My new switches are the things I was talking about the were lighting up. Tomorrow is another day
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 9:41pm
I did figure these wires out they were for the bilge pump and blower
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-08-2020 at 9:52pm
John, Considering the wiring problems, I wouldn't be surprised. The one way to find out is to go after the wiring tomorrow. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 12:29am
John, did you get the VOM out and check that gray wire. Also, disconnect the gray wire at the tach an check it for voltage when you turn the key on. Report back what you get QUOTE] Pete just curious about this reading? Alrighty then-here are the results Disconnected wire from Tach got a reading of 11.01 volts with key in on position. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 7:40am
John, Thinking again about getting the voltage reading from the gray sender wire at the tach, I should have told you to also disconnect the positive wire on the coil. Try it again and see what you get. The idea here is to make sure the gray wire isn't connected someplace else since you mentioned you other connections in the wire harness/loom. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 1:41pm
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Wire from Tach no volts. Also read that a dead light bulb could be a cause; but after disconnecting it as it is burned out same pegging. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 2:19pm
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JT With the gray wire hooked up to the coil(-) your reading of 11 or so volts is normal with the key in the Run position depending on the points position. Assuming you have points, if the points are open when you turn the key to Run, you'll have the same voltage as what's going into the (+) terminal of the coil from the ignition switch. If the points are closed when you turn the key to Run, you'll have no voltage because the coil is going to ground through the points. If you pop the cap off and see if the points are open or closed, you'll know what you should be seeing for voltage based on the above. The tach needs 12 volts from the key, a ground connection and then the pulse signal to give indication comes from the gray wirehooked to the coil (-). The pulse itself is that change from 12 or so down to zero volts every time the points operate. With it pegging when the key is turned to Run, you should probably look on the back for a small switch for selecting the input. It might be inside a little hole or you might be able to see it pretty easily. Most tachs have this selector. With a little "tweaker" you can move that switch from it's present position to the next position in either direction and cycle it back to where it was a couple of times. This will clean the contacts if they're dirty or have a little corrosion. Different tachs are labeled differently but you should find the switch in the 8 cyl position and end up with it back there too.. Then with all the wires hooked up normally, it may work again. It won't hurt to try this. I have a tach that does just what yours does and needs this every few years or so And then again, maybe it's just dead If it's an electronic ignition in the distributor, all the same info pertains Just an oh by the way....................your dash diagram shows an ammeter setup and your photos in other threads for this boat show a voltmeter next to the ignition switch so that explains your missing red wire you mentioned. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 3:40pm
Good. So now you know the gray wire isn't connected to anything else. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 7:57pm
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Well I took all gauges out and cleaned/reconnected and wired by the Diagram above. I did find the 3 connectors on back of Tach and moved around and back to 8 cyl. After all the above Tach still pegs so maybe it is bad. Will see what it does after I get engine running again when don with Carb. Thanks for all the info |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 8:38pm
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John, How's you back from crawling under the dash? I know it gets tougher and tougher as time goes by. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-09-2020 at 10:13pm
Little stiff, but with 2 bad shoulders and knee I'll deal with it. I still have to finish carpet under there yet Thanks Was hoping to go to Lake Sunday for the water test but 80 % chance of rain
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Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-11-2020 at 3:15pm
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It never ends Decided to make sure engine runs after all the wiring issues. Engine was running ok and I never went into the Distributor Check this out?? You could almost drive a truck through the gap  This as close as I could get 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-11-2020 at 7:11pm
JT That's some kind of magic distributor you got yourself there In the first picture the points would never close so it's seems kinda hard (like impossible) to make a spark and make the engine run. In the second picture, it looks like they're still open and they'll never close unless it's camera angle or lighting or something making it look that way, making it equally impossible to get a spark. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-11-2020 at 9:45pm
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After looking closer the arm has gotten bent and actually shorted on the screw. Kinda straightened and it runs again??? Still the Tack pegs and stays there even with engine running ; think I will buy another and try. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-11-2020 at 9:47pm
| Just a quick question . Any idea why I'm not getting e-mail notifications??? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-11-2020 at 9:56pm
Look down at the bottom of the message box. There's a box to check for email replies. If you logged out and then back in, I believe you need to check the box again ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: May-11-2020 at 10:20pm
It's checked now but will log out and see if that works. Thanks |