1994 Hydrodyne stringer job
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46827
Printed Date: May-18-2024 at 2:54am
Topic: 1994 Hydrodyne stringer job
Posted By: camron18
Subject: 1994 Hydrodyne stringer job
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 12:03pm
|
So i think this winter i have to replace the stringers in my 94 hydrodyne grandsport. i have a garage to do it in with the ability to use a lift the stringers are soft, if you tap them, i also drilled into them, and it was mush. it took a few seconds to drill through the fiberglass, then i pretty much fell though the wood. i want to start a thread to get me going, and because i will have a bunch of questions over the winter. i am nervous to take on such a big project but confident you guys will get me through this. one big challenge is that it is open bow. so i think im going to have to take off the top deck. i have done a bit of research here on the process but i will still have some questions. one question i have is i have found that the hull is apparently super strong. https://books.google.com/books?id=0eQDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA116&dq=baltek+boston&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiNu82Q9pncAhXi44MKHfQoAMEQ6AEIMzAD#v=onepage&q=baltek%20boston&f=false" rel="nofollow - the hull is baltek so i guess i can drive a loader over it and it wont break, hopefully this means i wont have to worry too much about supporting the hull other than the trailer with the top deck off. (i still will be adding supports to the 4 corners) what do you guys think this baltek means? are the stringers also baltek? also the engine cradle is through bolted, should i though bolt it as well? or lag it like most of you have done?  
|
Replies:
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 1:09pm
|
I tried to find Andy's (Okie Boarder's) original thread on how he had to split his Supra to do his stringer job but couldnt find it. I did find this reference to it though that has a couple pictures. Not sure how different the Supra with inside walls throughout is different than your open bow, but if he could get this split, I'm sure you can get yours. Good luck with it. Keep us posted. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16958&KW=stringers&title=splitting-boat" rel="nofollow - Andy's split ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 2:33pm
|
Pull out the rub rail elastomer while the sun is still on it after that, when ready get drilling! first the rail, then the rivets underneath If working outside, a plastic masonry tub by your feet is good to keep the shavings in control and not make a 100 yr hazard for bare feet ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 3:06pm
|
Not sure how Hydrodyne construction is but the rubrail looks similar to American Skier. Under rubrail elastomer is about 100 screws holding the rubrail to the deck as well as the deck to the hull. Follow Gottaski recommendation if Hydrodyne used rivets as he states instead of screws. Once all rivets or screws are out the deck is probably a shoebox fit over the edge of the hull. May need to run a utility knife under the seam if there is a sealant used to seal it. Once that's done the deck just lifts off pretty easy. Just make sure to disconnect all wiring, steering cables, throttle/shift cables, gas tank, vent hose, speakers, etc. before you can remove the deck. You should be able to set it on a few sawhorses. I had mine sitting that way in my garage for months without an issue. Removing the deck is definitely the right way to do it in my opinion. Thats how I did mine. Remove one stringer at a time and replace it before moving to the next one. The hull will be pretty flimsy after you remove the deck. If you remove all stringers you definitely have to do some bracing beforehand. Throughbolting the cradle is how American Skier does it too. Its much better than lag bolting IMHO. Do it the same way. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 6:08pm
|
Yes, lets hope there are screws! Beware every meat head friend that visits your shop will want to walk over and lift up the deck before asking for authorization, to see how heavy it is So if you have it supported under the bow and they lift the stern, they try to rip the bow off the deck as you hear the glass cracking then then slam it down and say whoops ask me how I know... ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: September-25-2018 at 9:56am
|
Thanks guys! hopefully they are screws! does anyone know anything about the baltek? are the stringers baltek? or just the hull? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2018 at 10:21am
|
Cameron, Sorry I can't directly answer if the stringers have a Balsa core but I have a suggestion. You said you drilled into a stringer and it was soft inside. and this could mean rot or Balsa. Drill again but use a hole saw to just remove the glass. Then you will be able to get a good look at the core. Drill in a few spots to check for water too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-02-2019 at 12:13pm
|
So after a few very busy months I am tearing into it. I have the engine ready to be pulled today or tomorrow with a come-along hung from a tree, then the gas tank and the top deck. looks like it will be pretty straight forward if i remember to disassemble the lift ring and bow eye assembly. My question is what measurements exactly, should I be taking before I pull the engine cradle? distance from transom? |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 12:10pm
|
So i cant believe this happened but long story short, a broke come-along, resulted in my engine falling from about 3 feet to the ground. It landed pretty square on the oil pan which i think cushioned most of the fall, then it rolled over onto its port side. we some how got it back up and onto the engine stand. I couldn't believe it. what should i look for? i think the oil pan is still okay, if i can take it off and bang it back into shape, because the only oil we lost even after it sitting all night was a little bit out the dipstick hole. I want to replace the port exhaust manifold anyway,  |
Posted By: zwoobah
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 2:02pm
|
Wow. Glad no one got hurt. Pull the oil pan. I'd replace the oil pump since you'll already have it open and the landing impact may have cracked the oil pump pickup. I'd also just replace the oil pan - they're not too expensive and you don't want it leaking if it's knocked out of square. ------------- 1968 Mustang 16 - 351W powered |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 4:51pm
Cameron, I don't see any mention as to what engine you have and I'm not that familiar with what Hydrodyne used so be aware that some oil pans are hard to find and get. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
zwoobah wrote:Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 6:02pm
|
Sorry to hear of the mishap. Was it a Harbor freight come-along? I have one of those, maybe I should replace it before i get hurt. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 6:24pm
|
Its a PCM 351 pro boss the prices for a new oil pan on skidim seem steep? is there a better place to find a new one? No it was not harbor freight. |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 6:30pm
|
i also dont see any oil pumps on skidim? would it just be a standard 351 oil pump? and i would probably want standard volume? |
Posted By: Nautiquehunter
Date Posted: January-07-2019 at 6:39pm
| I pulled the cap and replaced the stringers on a 84 Supra Comp. Let me know if you need advice on separating the hull. mike hunter 678-227-8833 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 8:29am
Depending on how much clearance you have under the engine you might be able to use a pan from a Ford truck . i think your engine is mounted at an angle with a PCM 1 to 1 ratio transmission and you'd probably have clearance. Only one way to find out  A standard 351 oil pump is just fine especially since a high volume pump won't allow a standard PCM pan to bolt to the block because of the extra depth of the pump housing. as compared to the standard pump. That's a Melling high volume pump that won't fit maybe some other brand would but it's not needed. The standard truck pan would have the same problem with the oil pump depth. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 8:36am
|
Here's a link to an oil pan discussion. The aftermarket pan is a Spectra FP-7B http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42437&title=351-oil-pan-comparison-pictures" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 10:30am
|
Jody at Florida Inboards in Panama City will likely have a used oil pan. He got hit hard in the summer hurricanes. It first looked as if he was going to be out of business, but now it seems he has moved to a new location. His last place was leveled. Look him up on facebook. ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 11:11am
|
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Ill have a few months to figure it all out. Back to the stringers.. for now, after taking out the engine it is very clear that the stringers are full of rot, hopefully be pulling the cap this weekend, what measurements should i be taking before pulling the engine cradle? Thanks again! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 12:21pm
Cameron, The mounting height of the cradle and the fore to aft placement are the critical dimensions. The best reference point for the fore to aft is the log. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 2:49pm
|
Since it's on an angle, it might be worth it to make a wood jig that you can drop back in to give confidence during the rebuild. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 3:59pm
When lifting things, its important to do it safely and with the proper equipment....or whatever..... ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-08-2019 at 4:30pm
And always follow how sling angles affect lifting capacities.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: January-09-2019 at 1:12am
Wisconsin Lawn Art.  ------------- 1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens 2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-09-2019 at 8:32am
And the rest of the picture story is in the link http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40163&title=lifting-rings-are-for-vertical-loads-only" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-21-2019 at 3:24pm
this weekend i split the boat in two... pretty crazy. it was about ten degrees out and snowing like crazy as i worked outside for about 4 hours. but i got both halves in the garage at the end of the day.    After moving the gas tank i relized just how bad the stringers are and i am glad i decided to do them now instead of waiting another year. should there be any fear of the top half deforming over the next few months or will it fit right back on the way it came off? is there any benifit to trying to level the boat on the trailer or is it just as easy to run a string across? Next step is to start tearing into the floor and stringers. curcluar saw with the blade depth as shallow as possible? leave an inch or so of floor around the edges? |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: January-25-2019 at 10:58am
| Anyone have any advise on this before i cut into the floor tomorrow? |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: January-25-2019 at 11:22pm
|
Somebody with the knowledge help the guy out! Tomorrow is not very far away. I wish I could but have no experience in this department. ------------- 2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski |
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: January-26-2019 at 12:55am
|
I recommend a sawzall and leave about an inch or a little less on the edge.The circular saw creates a lot of dust. Pay attention to the contours of the hull, but even so the blade should bend and won’t cut through the hull. I am not sure how that floor is constructed, but you might start by cutting along the inside of the primary to get a feel for how it will go. That will help on the outside edge as you can tell if something is giving resistance and is not the way cutting wood under the fiberglass felt. I didn’t split my boat, so I can’t say how much it will flex and go back. ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:31am
got the floor cut up last weekend. this pic shows just how bad the stringers are... hydrodyne made it easy with no foam under the floor!!  
|
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:55am
looking for Douglas Fir this week. 2x10 about 15 ft long around 8% moisture. hopefully clean it all up this weekend start grinding and replacing each stringer one at a time. 
|
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 6:18pm
|
So I found Doug fir locally for 38 bucks a board. I also bought 5ftx 40ft of 1.5 oz chop strand glass from my fiberglass guy. He said I can't use epoxy resin with this stuff but I don't need epoxy? Reading on here that epoxy resin is better? He said to do about 4-6 layers of the 1.5 oz glass for the stringers. How much resin should I expect? Start with a gallon? I was hoping to make my cpes with the resin and xylol. Does this still work with poly resin? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: March-10-2019 at 7:12pm
Here is a quote form Tim-
Anything chopped will not be as strong as something woven. Have you looked at other stringer replacement threads? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 9:47am
|
I have been reading other threads but i get lost in all the fiberglass variations (epoxy, poly, vinyl, cpes, pb, different kinds of mat, different kinds of epoxy) ive never done any fiberglass at all. My family friend who does fiberglass and sold me the chop strand glass is confident that i will have no problems using poly. do you guys think i should be doing something different? can i use poly resin over cpes? |
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:19am
|
Like your friend said, you will have no problem doing it with poly, but epoxy has several advantages over poly. The poly will pass water through it where as the epoxy won’t. Boat builders use and have used poly for many years. I looked at the options and thought about vinylester because it is better than polyester resin, but ultimately decided to use epoxy. All will work and will last several years, but I wanted to do my best to prevent rot from happening again. A lot depends on how moist everything gets and stays. Storing in a garage between uses may make it last a long time and never give you trouble. You have to decide what is right for your situation. ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Nautiquehunter
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:20am
| Yes CPES will stick to poly or epoxy . US Composites is a good source of information and material. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:37am
|
Another big advantage to epoxy is that it has a much longer working time, so you can get more done per mix cycle. I may be wrong, but I remember reading that epoxy sticks to cured poly, but not the other way around. I think you have to have a conversion coat to put poly over epoxy. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 1:51pm
|
So should I not be listening to my friend and got with 1708 biax and epoxy instead? This is starting to get expensive |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 3:04pm
|
If you don;'t care if it lasts more than 10 years, poly will be OK. Do some research to see if poly sticks to CPES though. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 4:33pm
 Is this what you guys suggest for layup scheduled or could i get away with just doing a couple layers of 1708 on the primary's and one layer on the secondary? if i choose to go that way. |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 4:38pm
| what kind of fiberglass have you guys done over the floor? |
Posted By: 93/70 ccpb
Date Posted: March-11-2019 at 6:13pm
|
can you send me name and phone number of source of douglas fir lumber thanks dan ------------- what you dont want to hear from jbear and bill.you cant get in the boat till you get your minute,and they throw you back in water! |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-12-2019 at 9:33am
|
im getting it from https://www.zeelandlumber.com/" rel="nofollow - zeeland Lumber in Wyoming MI (616) 879-1185 |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: March-12-2019 at 9:49am
|
So i think im going to go with the cheaper poly resin. I called jamestown and they said poly resin will stick to cpes just fine if i wipe it down with acetone and give it a light sanding before hand. So im going to have the cpes keep it waterproof and let the doug fir give me the strength. the fiberglass just needs to be strong enough to keep the stringers to the hull. I can tell you anything will be better than how it is now and how ive been running it the past few years... Im also going to be doing such a better job of sealing the stringers than hydrodyne did. i cant believe how much exposed wood there was on the stringers. they stopped fiberglass about 4 inches from the transom and just left it exposed. they put so many screws in the very bottom of the stringers to hold a gas line in place so it didn't take much water in the bilge to soak the stringers. I guess ill let you guys know in ten years if im doing it again or if you guys all fell for a marketing trick.
|
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-02-2019 at 12:47pm
|
I got the stringers cut this weekend im pretty happy with how they turned out. Next thing i need to do is cut the rest of the little bit of floor i left around the edges. what is the best way to do that? A bit of a challenge is going to be to cut around the strip of wood just at floor level. I think it was probably glassed on after the floor was in place... I could try to very carefully cut if off with a grinder but id hate to go through the hull... Do you guys think ill have a problem getting the glass to lay around and over top of the strips like the curvy line in the pic? or am i going to have to cut that strip out? 
|
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: April-02-2019 at 2:14pm
|
In order to properly glass in the floor, the strip of wood needs to come out. Anything other than very light glass won’t get into the space between the floor and the wood strip. I am assuming you will have some mat on the floor surface. ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: April-02-2019 at 2:30pm
|
I concur, those radius need fillets else the layup will be full of air and voids. Best get it out of the way and put the non-structural stuff back later. I find a pnuematic cutoff wheel with a makeshift water steam affixed to it aimed at the disk makes a nice cut., controls airborne fibers in the garage or yard,, into a slurry you hose down, can collect and dispose of. of course full ppe, faceshield, tyvek, and particle respirator ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: April-02-2019 at 4:30pm
|
thanks guys. those are gonna kinda suck to get cut off... you can see them in this pic circled. its what the cargo net screws into. 
|
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: May-09-2019 at 10:58am
 Got the stringers all glassed, bilge painted. and holes for blower pipe and engine cradle drilled. im very happy with how it turned out. engine cradle fits perfectly tight between the stringers. im making floor support for the open bow area out of extruded aluminum that will be through bolted and adding a ski locker. Moving on to the floors this weekend, looks like the best way to do this is just peanut butter the floor to the stringers and use no screws? How many layers of glass over the floor is typically done? |
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: May-09-2019 at 11:33am
| Very nice job. I’m gonna copy your work someday |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2019 at 7:23pm
|
Cameron, Look'n good! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: camron18
Date Posted: May-20-2019 at 9:44am
   So i took the oil pan off this weekend and everything under it looks fine including the pickup. I dont think anything was touched. Im gonna try to bang it out this week and get it back into shape and maybe jb weld or have the welder where i work fill any holes but i dont think there are any. unless that seems like a bad idea to you guys... Im going with 2 layers of glass on the floor with 2 extra layers of strips around the edges. today, cut some holes for the ski locker and wires to go thru carpet latter this week and put her all back together on Saturday and hopefully a test drive on Monday!! |