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Wiring harness

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17585
Printed Date: May-18-2024 at 10:12am


Topic: Wiring harness
Posted By: tutor turtle
Subject: Wiring harness
Date Posted: May-17-2010 at 12:51pm
On my 1983 2001, the 8-way engine harness plug appears to be getting flakey. I am seeing a 2 to 3 volt difference between the battery level and everything after this connector, including the ignition and dashboard.

If I cycle the connection, I can get everything working for a while.

It looks to be a major project to replace the whole wiring harness, is there anything that can bring the contacts back to life?

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Tutor turtle



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-17-2010 at 2:30pm
Steven,
To avoid you having to go through the whole thread, I just copied and pasted the following from a recent post.

"Post Options Post Reply
Quote 8122pbrainard
Edit Post   Quote Reply Posted: 13-May-2010 at 10:52am
Originally posted by grose

no power to the dash problem fixed. after a lot of testing, all it took was unplugging the wiring harness on the back of the engine an plugging it back in. just a loose connection. unplugged again and took a small screwdriver into the female end and closed them up just a little to get a tighter fit and we're good to go.

Greg,
I highly recommend to go after this connector again in fact, any connectors and terminals. The last one I opened up was on my Tique due to a voltage drop issue. I found nothing but green (copper oxide) inside. By cleaning all the plugs and the connections up, I eliminated 1.3 volts of power drop. Get inside each female socket with some "scotch brite" rolled up or use a small wire brush on a Dremel tool until all the corrosion is gone. Then and very important is to use dielectric grease when you put them back together. I have seen these plugs literally burnt up due to corrosion/resistance and the resulting heat."


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Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: tutor turtle
Date Posted: May-17-2010 at 2:52pm
Thanks brainard, I figured someone had to have seen this before and had a low-cost solution.

I've cleaned the male contacts, but the sockets are gunked-up and (as the previous poster noted) a little over-expanded. It looks as much of a poor grip issue as a corrosion one. But it's nice to know it's fixable.

This should do the trick, thanks again.

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Tutor turtle


Posted By: pmt2234
Date Posted: May-24-2010 at 8:36pm
I fought the same problem for years, voltage drop at the plug/socket. I went cheap for a while, cleaning contacts, etc., then bought a bunch of proper marine grade wire and did everything point to point about 2 years ago. No problems since.


Posted By: tutor turtle
Date Posted: May-25-2010 at 3:45pm
That is certainly is the surest solution.

I was thinking along the same lines, my only reservation to that solution is: Can you think of any instance where I would need the "modularity" of being able to separate the harness?

The only thing I could think of was, If I had to remove the motor (a very unlikely event) in which case I would ether label the individual wires, or disconnect them at their source/destination.

What gauge are those conductors? I'll have to gather my stock before I leave home, the boat lives two hours north, up in Gods country, where the few stores that do exist, have little useful stock for ski-boats.

Am I missing anything?

I have a friend who works for Chrysler. They employed a Hall-Effect sensor for the throttle position, whose output was in the micro-volt range. No matter how clean the connector looked, it only took a little resistance to alter the reading and cause drivability issues. The TSB (technical service bulletin) specified: snip off the connector, solder the wires. It worked every time.

Much Thanks-
Steven M

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Tutor turtle



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