Best way to replace cutlas.

All you need is a blowtorch and a pair of pliers, ya hear me Hillbilly Boy??

Only if you're sure that 1) it's bent and 2) you're not going to reuse the coupler. Else you're potentially flushing $350. Removing the coupler is also easiest when you have a matching stationary pushing point (like the trans output flange).

Otherwise, by all means- sawzall!

Shaft packing (assume you meant driveshaft, not rudder) is a good idea too. 1000x easier while the shaft is out.

Going ARE if your shaft is bent is not a bad idea... it's the same price (or cheaper) than a new single taper shaft + coupler. If your coupler is good, I might price out a shaft-only replacement though? If close in cost, dual taper is pretty nice.

Hobbyist here... I know how long it takes me to remove, reinstall and realign an engine. With my facilities and equipment, it's easily a half day project if I hustle... full day if I take my time. I can do a shaft r&r plus bearing replacement in a few hours- either on the lift or on the trailer. Just speaking from experience.

Of course, if the engine is coming out anyways you bet I'll be throwing a cutlass in while it's out. That's $50 and 45min well spent.

Dealing with interference fit couplers is not hard. Ignore HW, he has an unnatural fear of coupler removal/reinstallation (don't think he's ever done one).

You mentioned removing the strut... now that is something I would try to avoid at all costs... getting it perfectly lined up when reinstalling can be pretty tricky. Not hard to r&r the bushing while it's on the boat.

So I was about ready to charge down to my heated hanger with the intent of pulling the shaft out of the 176. This was a 2 birds one stone scenario.

1. The cutlas bearing has too much play
2. I suspect the shaft is bent a little.

I was just going to bring a prop puller, remove the rudder, and use a 3 jaw puller for the flange. Now I've been seeing a lot of people talking about removing the engine instead of removing the trans coupler.

Is it THAT hard to get the coupler back on? I know it's tight, but I was picturing an oven and some aerosol to get her back together. Is it not that easy? I hate the idea of pulling the engine when I'm not sure the shaft is good anyway.

Chris